98 NEW TRACKS IN NORTH AMERICA. 
ignorant. Most of the ornamentation appeared to be only oj 
stucco, yet the gilding was very rich, and has well resisted 
the wear and tear of time. Whilst I was examining the 
interior, several Papagos came in to pray; they performec 
their devotions mostly aloud, and one woman, after pray 7 
for some time, began to sing. She made a most horrid noise 
something between an Indian war-song and a Gregorial 
chant, which “‘ moved me too much,” so I went away. 
This church would be considered a fine one in Switzerland 
or Germany, yet not a single priest lives here now, and on J 
an occasional service is performed by one of the resident 
clergy from Tucson. Grouped around it are the conical 
thatched huts of the. Papagos, who seem to have taker 
shelter under the shadow of the great giant rising from U el 
midst. Not a creature lives here except these Indians. 
There is not, besides the church, any building larger than @ 
hut. I wondered, as I looked at this strange sight, whether 
it might not have fairly represented a Saxon village in the 
twelfth century—a number of huts clustered around a fine 
massive Norman church—and whether our ancestors thet 
were much more civilised than these Papagos of the preset 
day. As the Saxons proved, in the race of centuries, strong® 
than their conquerors, will these Papagos also in time regal 
their ascendency over us? They are not Red Indians; a 
do not belong to that debauched and dégraded stock whit 
melts away before the breath of the white man. They are 0 
the South—Aztecs, or native Mexicans, as you like—but sem 
civilised people, not savages. Already they have risen sv pe 
rior to the Spanish element, and have proved themselve 
better men than the mixed blood—the Mexican. It ® 
therefore, worth while to wait and watch the meeting ° 
_ the waters, the mingling of streams never before brow 
