112 NEW TRACKS IN NORTH AMERICA. 
the comfort comes from the coffee. It matters not how bad 
the water is, for plenty of coffee puts it all right. Cold, 
wet, and weary, our tin mug of black steaming coffee proved 
the best of night-cap, and a quart a day (that is, a pint to — 
each meal) we found to be only just sufficient for one person. 
When you must work hard and brave all weathers, even 
the pipe must yield at last to coffee. ' 
Two ranches only fill up the long distance of eighty miles” | 
between the San Ignacio and San Miguel rivers, and as we } 
wished to avoid notice as much as possible, and to prevent 
any of the Mexican idlers who prowl about these places 
from laying any plans to waylay and rob us, we purposely — 
travelled in a very eccentric manner, sometimes by day, 7 
sometimes by night, and never stopped long at any of these — 
places. Thus we reached Querobabi early in ~ 
the morning, made a hasty meal, gave our — 
mules some corn—the real object of our visit—and started on F 
again. 
Querobabi is a large ruined stock-farm, where once some — 
great Spanish stock raiser lived in barbaric state, owned vast 
flocks and herds which roamed all over this fine pasture 
country, and kept a large number of rancheros, peons, and 
retainers at his establishment. Such places are found all 4 
over the country, either quite deserted and in ruins, or partly 
inhabited, though stripped of all their former greatness. At 1 
this place I found five men of the Papago tribe standing at | 
the entrance ; they wore clean white cotton mantles throwD q 
over their showtdaes in the Spanish fashion—leggings, q 
moccasins, and broad straw sombreros. As I stood by them — 
I felt a dwarf, and on measuring them I found that the 
average height of the five was 6 feet 3 inches. There are, 
probably, few races of greater stature than the Papago’ 
Their skin was almost black. 
Dec. 9. 
