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Irazii Volcano, the highest of the country's many 

 active craters. The havoc they have wreaked over 

 the centuries is most visible in Cartago, once the 

 country's cultural heart, now known for its ruins 

 and aura of "once was." Slightly further south- 

 east lies the Tapanti Wildlife Refuge, a small 

 taste of rainforest where glimpses of the endan- 

 gered quetzal, cheeky howler monkeys, and even 

 a jaguar reward the patient. 



GUATEMALA 



From a historical and cultural perspec- 

 tive, Guatemala is one of the Latin 

 American leaders. Like a well-ordered 

 museum, it's divided into chronological 

 galleries, each region separate from the others 

 and condensed in its focus. 



A short drive from the modern gallery — 

 the capital, Guatemala City — takes you to 

 the colonial one. From 1543 to 1773 the an- 

 cient capital, Antigua, ranked third behind 

 Lima and Mexico City in Latin American im- 

 portance. Finally undone by a series of vol- 

 canic tremors and mud-slides, it was by-passed 

 by the last two centuries of progress. Today 

 you can walk its cobbled streets and catch 

 glimpses, through heavy gates left ajar, of cool, 

 shaded courtyards. You can wander through 

 the broken convent of Las Capuchinas, now 

 containing a museum and garden, and visit 

 the church of San Francisco which rises like 

 the proverbial Phoenix from the ruins of its 

 former grandeur. Comfortable hotels and cafes 

 are woven seamlessly into the ancient fabric. 



To see the gallery of native cultures, drive 

 north on the Interamerican Highway until the 

 terrain shifts into the Western Highlands. 

 Glinting cooly at the foot of three volcanoes 

 lies Lake Atitlan, a natural wonder that has left 

 everyone from the first conquistadors to writer 

 Aldous Huxley short of words. On market 

 days (Thursdays and Sundays) in nearby 

 Chichicastenango, hundreds of locals in tradi- 

 tional garb materialize from surrounding vil- 

 lages to hawk their handicrafts. 



But Guatemala's oldest and most renowned 

 galley is surely Tikal, the massive and mysteri- 

 ous city of the Mayas that has been wrestled 

 from the jungle in the north. Reaching the 

 site by plane from the capital, you are awed by 



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MORE CHAMPAGNE. MORE ICE. 



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41B 



CUNARD 



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