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same breakfast without toast, which Mon- 

 tignac will not countenance in tandem 

 with fatty bacon. 



As a person who has been unhappily 

 heeding medical warnings about choles- 

 terol intake, I ought to have been over- 

 joyed since Montignac made it sound as 

 though I had the chance to eat as much 

 cheese as I wanted, but again the bread 

 prohibition made me very uncomfortable. 

 I wanted rice with fish, and potatoes with 

 steak. Naked salmon and sirloin on a plate 

 looked mournful. Adding broccoli or fen- 

 nel, so as to have a permissible vegetable, 

 which also served as a substitute for the 

 bulk that starch normally provides, did not 

 satisfy me. 



In the end, I just found Montignac too 

 heterodox, too unplugged from the seman- 

 tics of engrained culinary combinations. 

 At first, this realization made me sorry I 

 was such a slave to traditional habits and 

 biases. But then I remembered how often I 

 had written in these pages about the 

 predicament we all face, having inherited 

 foodways that evolved in the strenuous, 

 farm-based past and that do not suit mod- 

 em life. Why should I find it easier than 

 anyone else to unplug myself from the 

 pegboard of culinary assumptions? 



Sfincione 



(Sicilian Pizza) 



Adapted from Anna Tasca Lanza's The 

 Heart of Sicily: Recipes and Reminis- 

 cences of Regaleali, a Country Estate 

 (Clarkson Potter, $40, 255 pages) 



2 medium onions, sliced 

 'A cup olive oil 

 2 cups all-purpose flour 

 1 cup semolina flour 

 1 teaspoon salt 



1 package diy active yeast 



i egg 



2 tablespoons butter, diced 



4 anchovy fillets, cut into 4 pieces 

 % pound fresh mozzarella, sliced 

 'A pound Emmentaler, julienned 

 'A pound Gouda, julienned 

 'A cup grated Parmesan 

 'A cup grated caciocavallo or 

 pecorino 

 2-3 tablespoons dried oregano 

 Vi cup bread crumbs 



1 . Saute the onions in M cup of olive oil 

 over medium heat until golden, 15 to 

 20 minutes. Set aside. 



2. Combine flours with salt in a bowl. 

 Make a well in the center and add 

 yeast, 1 cup warm water, egg, and 

 butter. Work the dough until it makes 



Indeed, I should have more trouble than 

 most people since I have spent the past 

 twenty years cataloging and analyzing the 

 logic of cuisines for this magazine. You 

 could say, in fact, that that was the unify- 

 ing theme of all my columns: traditional 

 diets and how they have evolved, slowly, 

 organically. These natural cuisines are all 

 systems of tastes that have been selected 

 by societies because they harmonized with 

 natural possibilities and collective prefer- 

 ences. Of course, these preferences are to 

 a large extent arbitrary, but once the basic 

 outlines are set, it takes a major effort for 

 people raised eating in a particular cuisine 

 to alter them. Change does occur, but al- 

 ways within the preexisting frame. At any 

 given moment, a cuisine makes sense of 

 the world (while a radical, dadaist reshuf- 

 fling of a cuisine, a la Montignac, creates 

 chaos, mental indigestion). 



The truth of this emerges on every page 

 of Anna Tasca Lanza's The Heart of 

 Sicily: Recipes and Reminiscerices of Re- 

 galeali, a Country Estate. Lanza lovingly 

 describes the food year on her family's big 

 farm. Regaleali is so old-fashioned it even 

 has a Frenchified chef, a monzii (dialect 

 for monsieur): Mario is Italian, the last in a 

 line of Gallic-style chefs that goes back to 



a ball, and turn it out onto a work sur- 

 face. The dough will be wet initially 

 but will become smooth after you 

 work it for 3 to 4 minutes. Continue 

 to knead the dough for 10 to 15 min- 

 utes, until it is smooth and elastic. 



3. Oil a 9 by 13 baking sheet. Roll out 

 the dough and shape it to fit. Place 

 the anchovy pieces on the dough in 

 rows, cover with mozzarella, sprin-^ 

 kle with the Emmentaler and Gouda, 

 and spread the onions on top. Mix 

 the Parmesan and caciocavallo or 

 pecorino together and spread over 

 the onions. Sprinkle with oregano. 

 Spread the bread crumbs evenly on 

 top. Press all the ingredients into the 

 dough, using the palms of your 

 hands. Drizzle the remaining olive 

 oil on top and cover with a kitchen 

 towel. Place in a warm spot, and 

 allow the dough to rise until it dou- 

 bles in volume, about 45 minutes. 



4. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. 



5. Bake the sfincione until the crust is 

 browned underneath and the cheese 

 has melted, about 40 to 50 minutes. 

 Let it stand for 15 minutes, then cut it 

 into squares and serve. 



Yield: 12 servings as a snack, 

 6 as a first course 



78 Natural History 3/94 



