RAZOR-BILLED AUK. 113 



in view of the renowned Harbour of Whapati Guan, and already saw its 

 curious beacon, which, being in form like a huge mounted cannon placed 

 on the elevated crest of a great rock, produced a most striking effect. We 

 knew that the harbour was within the stupendous wall of rock before us, 

 but our pilot, either from fear or want of knowledge, refused to guide us 

 to it, and our captain, leaving the vessel in charge of the mate, was obliged 

 to go off in a boat, to see if he could find a passage. He was absent more 

 than an hour. The Ripley stood off and on, the yards were manned on 

 the look-out, the sea was smooth and its waters as clear as crystal, but 

 the swell rose to a prodigious height as it passed sluggishly over the great 

 rocks that seemed to line the shallows over which we floated. We were 

 under no apprehension of personal danger, however, for we had several 

 boats and a very efficient crew ; and besides, the shores were within can- 

 non shot ; but the idea of losing our gallant bark and all our materials 

 on so dismal a coast haunted my mind, and at times those of my com- 

 panions. From the tops our sailors called out " Quite shallow here. Sir.'"* 

 Up went the helm, and round swung the Ripley like a duck taken by 

 surprise. Then suddenly near another shoal we passed, and were careful 

 to keep a sharp look-out until our commander came up. 



Springing upon the deck, and turning his quid rapidly from side to side, 

 he called out, "All hands square the yards," and whispered to me " All's 

 safe, my good Sir." The schooner advanced towards the huge barrier, 

 merrily as a fair maiden to meet her beloved ; now she doubles a sharp 

 cape, forces her way through a narrow pass ; and lo ! before you opens 

 the noble harbour of Whapati Guan. All around was calm and solemn ; 

 the waters were smooth as glass, the sails fell against the masts, but the 

 impetus which the vessel had received urged her along. The lead was 

 heaved at every yard, and in a few minutes the anchor was dropped. 



Reader, I wish you had been there, that you might yourself describe 

 the wild scene that presented itself to our admiring gaze. We were se- 

 parated from the rolling swell of the Gulf of St Lawrence by an im- 

 mense wall of rock. Far away toward the east and north, rugged mounds 

 innumerable rose one above another. Multitudes of frightened Cor- 

 morants croaked loudly as they passed us in the air, and at a distance 

 fled divers Guillemots and Auks. The mossy beds around us shone with 

 a brilliant verdure, the lark piped its sweet notes on high, and thousands 

 of young codfish leaped along the surface of the deep cove as if with joy. 

 Such a harbour I had never seen before ; such another, it is probable, I 



