540 NATCHEZ iN 1820. 



The agricultural richness of the surrounding country was shewn by the 

 heaps of cotton bales and other produce that encumbered the streets. The 

 churches, however, did not please me ; but as if to make up for this, I 

 found myself unexpectedly accosted by my relative Mr Bekthodd, who 

 presented me with letters from my wife and sons. These circumstances put 

 me in high spirits, and we proceeded towards the best hotel in the place, 

 that of Mr Gaknier. The house, which was built on the Spanish plan, 

 and of great size, was surrounded by large virandas overlooking a fine 

 garden, and stood at a considerable distance from any other. At this 

 period the City of Natchez had a population not exceeding three thousand 

 individuals. I have not visited it often since, but I have no doubt that, 

 like all the other towns in the western district of our country, it has great- 

 ly increased. It possessed a bank, and the mail arrived there thrice in 

 the week from all parts of the Union. 



The first circumstance that strikes a stranger is the mildness of the 

 temperature. Several vegetables as pleasing to the eye as agreeable to 

 the palate, and which are seldom seen in our eastern markets before May, 

 were here already in perfection The Pewee Fly-catcher had chosen the 

 neighbourhood of the city for its winter quarters, and our deservedly 

 famed Mocking Bird sang and danced gratis to every passer by. I was 

 surprised to see the immense number of Vultures that strode along the 

 streets, or slumbered on the roofs. The country for many miles inland 

 is gently undulated. Cotton is produced abundantly, and wealth and 

 happiness have taken up their abode under most of the planter's roofs, 

 beneath which the wearied traveller or the poor wanderer in search of a 

 resting place, is sure to meet with comfort and relief. Game is abundant, 

 and the free Indians were wont in those days to furnish the markets with 

 ample supplies of venison and Wild Turkey. The Mississippi, which 

 bathes the foot of the hill, some hundred feet below the town, supplies 

 the inhabitants with fish of various kinds. The greatest deficiency is that 

 of water, which for common purposes is dragged on sledges or wheels from 

 the river, while that used for drinking is collected in tanks from the roofs, 

 and becomes very scarce during protracted droughts. Until of late years, 

 the orange-tree bore fruit in the open air ; but owing to the great change 

 that has taken place in the temperature, severe though transient frosts oc- 

 casionally occur, which now prevent this plant from coming to perfection 

 in the open air. 



The remains of an old Spanish Fort are still to be seen at a short dis- 



