INTRODUCTION. xix 



contrary, or that we had been forced to stand still until dark- 

 ness had closed the magnificent landscape gradually and peace- 

 fully from the view. Would that I could once more gaze on 

 the beauties of Loch Katherine ! Our rowers, however, indif- 

 ferent to all save the shillings looked for, pulled uncommonly 

 well, and in due time brought us to a very dirty landing, 

 crowded with small ponies, ready-saddled, and standing by 

 the side of a smoky hut, in which they who had not eaten 

 enough at the Trosachs gorged themselves anew. 



Now, our ladies, the maid, and our sweet babe are all mount- 

 ed, while my friend Macgilliveay, my sons, and your humble 

 servant, are going ahead on foot. The road is rough enough, 

 but the sun shines brightly, and all are merry. When heated, 

 we drink from a brook, and when hungry munch the contents 

 of our pockets. Overtaking and leaving behind a very fat 

 Englishman, we laugh, and seeing a broad-shouldered and 

 sturdy Celt ahead, we strive to make up to him. Of the Gaelic 

 language I know nothing, and yet it gives me great pleasure 

 to hear it spoken by our friendly companion and the moun- 

 taineers, as we trudge along. Now down a very steep and 

 narrow pass we wind, and unexpectedly as it were find our- 

 selves on the rocky shores of the famed Loch Lomond. How 

 beautiful those three rugged and peaked mountains opposite, 

 those green and wooded slopes, and that placid blue lake that 

 stretches out before us, narrowing to the westward and ex- 

 panding in the opposite direction. 



Here we found a few small stone cabins, some fat bairns, 

 abundance of ale, and a sufficiecy of capital whisky. The 

 artist and his beloved were sketching a little cataract that 

 tumbled over a crag into the lake. Pony after pony, and one 



