98 EN ROUTE. [chap. iv. 



there were always fighting together. I took a few 

 articles of exchange, some of each of the different 

 things that I had, and we all started in the afternoon. 



Our native followers included two Ghou Damups, 

 who were to introduce us to their relatives on Erongo, 

 in the same way as the captain was to recommend us 

 to his Mends on the road. 



We emerged from the broad valley of the Swakop, 

 after three hours' travelling, then scrambled along a 

 very stony road, offpacked for a couple of hours in a 

 watercourse, and travelled on till daybreak, when we 

 came to the first Damara village, where, after a good 

 deal of explanation and long waiting, we were tolerated 

 and allowed some milk. Hans was my only interpreter. 

 A little bartering took place here, and some sheep 

 were bought. We then rode on down a broad grassy 

 plain, bounded on the left by high mountains, and 

 some more bartering took place at midday ; our oxen 

 on each occasion being put under the charge of the 

 captain of the tribe, who had them watered and sent 

 out to grass. I felt nervous at being amongst such 

 numbers of armed Ul-looking scoundrels as these 

 Damaras are ; their features are usually placid, but the 

 least excitement brings out all the lines of a savage 

 passion. They always crowded round us and hemmed 

 us in, and then tried to hustle us away from our bags 

 and baggage. They have an impudent way of handling 

 and laying hold of every thing they covet, and of 

 begging in an authoritative tone, laughing among 

 themselves all the time. It is veiy difiicult to keep 

 them off; the least show of temper would be very 



