CHAP. IV.] DAMARA FEATURES, 99 



hazardous among such a set of peoj)le, and it is hardly 

 possible to amuse and keep them in order without a 

 ready command of their language. I must say that 

 these savages are magnificent models for sculptors, 

 for they are tall, cleanly made, and perfectly upright ; 

 their head is thrown well back, and their luxuriant 

 but woolly hah' is clustered round an open forehead ; 

 their features are often beautifully chiselled, though 

 the expression in them is always coarse and disagree- 

 able. Their whole body shines with grease and red 

 paint (if they can afford those luxuries), and though 

 they are the dirtiest and most vermin-covered of 

 savages, yet the richer class among them are well 

 polished up, and present an appearance which at a 

 short distance is very imposing and statuesque. 

 They call clothes by the same name that they give to 

 the scum of stagnant water ; and I must say that, in 

 personal appearance, these naked savages were far less 

 ignoble objects than we Europeans in oiu' dirty shirts 

 and trousers. 



We arrived^t our guide's werft in the afternoon, and 

 I was thoroughly fatigued from heat and want of sleep, 

 and a pretty long ride ; but Hans kept watch and 

 bartered perpetually. I could find no shade — there 

 scarcely ever is shade in Damara-land — but dropped 

 asleep for two or three hours in the full sun, which 

 made me sick and poorly. Gabriel had recovered a 

 little of the spirits that he had lost by travelling, and 

 was now becoming impudent to the Damaras ; he had 

 a quick angry temper when annoyed, (having already 

 tried to stab two of his fellow servants), and now that 



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