Travers.—On the Lake Districts of Province of Auckland. 5 
itself to be, when brought into contact with ourselves, should give place to 
a more civilized one, yet some sympathy must be shown for the decay of a 
people which, in their ruder state, exhibited a somewhat high standard of 
character. 
The road from Orepi through the forest continues to rise for about 
twelve miles further, and then descends towards the open country forming 
the basin of Lake Rotorua. The scenery in parts of the forest is very pic- 
turesque ; but I may say, parenthetically, without desiring to give offence 
to those under whose charge the maintenance of the road has been placed, 
that the picturesque character of the country would be infinitely more 
enjoyable to the traveller, and the road more suitable for horses and car- 
riages, if the ruts were lessthan eighteen inches deep, and the roots, logs, 
and other fragments of trees, with which it is abundantly strewn, were 
removed from it. 
The first impression of Rotorua, as seen from the coach-road, especially 
on the afternoon of a dull day, is very disappointing, owing, chiefly, to the 
fact, that the whole country around the lake is covered with fern, the dull, 
monotonous colour of which gives it a gloomy aspect. On reaching Ohine- 
mutu, however, this impression is somewhat dispelled, the picturesque and 
remarkable appearance of the village giving life to the foreground, whilst, 
on the morning after my arrival, as the sun rose above the hills on its eastern 
side, lighting the landscape with rich and glowing colours, the lake pre- 
sented an aspect of much beauty. It was evidently, at one time, of con- 
siderably greater size than it is at present, for the ground rises gradually 
all around it, terminating in terraces composed chiefly of stratified pumice 
sand. 
The pah of Ohinemutu is situated on a small peninsula on the western 
side of the lake, part of it also occupying a rising ground at the back of the 
peninsula. Though no longer presenting its ancient distinguishing charac- 
teristics as a pah, it is still famous for its baths, and is occupied by a con- 
siderable number of the Arawa people. In former days, each dwelling was 
surrounded by its pole fence, and was ornamented with specimens of native 
carving in wood, generally of the most grotesque character, whilst larger 
images, erected on lofty poles, stood amongst the general line of the 
defensive pallisading. In these respects, however, as well as in that neat- 
ness which was formerly observed by the natives around their dwellings and 
enclosures, there is a great falling off; and the remains of ruined whares, 
fragments of cast-off clothing, broken iotidus, kerosine and sardine tins, old 
pots and kettles, children in ragged shirts or without any at all, half-starved 
horses, and all kinds of mongrel dogs and squeaking pigs—the latter, as 
they root amongst the refuse, avoiding, with marvellous ingenuity, the 
