1819 — 32. RIO DE JANEIKO. 73 



to the proper point of the horizon, until, startled by hearing 

 ' twelve o'clock,' reported by the master, we found too late, and 

 much to our annoyance, that it would have been wiser to have 

 looked at the compass before observing the altitude. 



Soon after mid-day black curling ripples stole along the 

 hitherto glassy surface ; sail was made, the sea-breeze fresh- 

 ened, and we steered towards the entrance of that magnificent 

 harbour, Rio de Janeiro. 



Often as it has been visited and described, I cannot expect 

 any one to require another sketch, but will merely remark 

 that I know no port ecfual to it in situation, security, capacity, 

 convenience, and abundant supply of every necessary, as well 

 as in picturesque beauty. A day or two after the Owen Glen- 

 dower anchored, a party of her midshipmen were allowed to 

 take a boat and enjoy a day's excursion in the beautiful har- 

 bour, or rather gulf. We landed on an island, which seemed 

 to me like an immense hot-bed, so luxuriant and aromatic 

 were the shrubs, and so exotical the appearance of every tree 

 and flower. Years since elapsed have not in the least dimi- 

 nished my recollection of the novelty and charm of that first 

 view of tropical vegetation. 



To return to the Beagle. On the 3d we were near Raza 

 Island, but detained by calms. The light-house lately erected 

 there showed a bright revolving, or rather intermitting light. 

 On the following day, when the sea-breeze set in, we steered 

 for the harbour. The sun shone brightly, and there were 

 enough passing clouds to throw frequent shadows over the 

 wooded heights and across vallies, where, at other times, the 

 brightest tints of varied green were conspicuous : yet I did 

 not think the place half so beautiful as formerly. The charm 

 of novelty being gone, and having anticipated too much, were 

 perhaps the causes ; and it is possible that so much wood has 

 been cleared away in late years, as to have diminished sensibly 

 the rich and picturesque appearance which it certainly once 

 possessed. 



As we shortened sail under the stern of our flag-ship, I was 

 surprised by finding Sir Thomas Baker, the Commander-in- 



