86 EXTRAORDINARY PAMPERO. 1829. 



from sea, towards the harbour of Maldonado. Before mid-day 

 the breeze was fresh from N.N.W., but after noon it became 

 moderate, and there was a gloominess, and a close sultry feel- 

 ing, which seemed to presage thunder and rain. I shovdd men- 

 tion that during three preceding nights banks of clouds had 

 been noticed near the south-west horizon, over which there was 

 a frequent reflection of very distant lightning. 



The barometer had been falling since the 25th, slowly, but 

 steadily, and on the 30th, at noon, it was at 29-4, and the ther- 

 mometer 78°. I, and those with me, thought little about the 

 fall of the mercury, and still less about the threatening aspect 

 of the south-west horizon. " Heavy rain," I thought, " at night, 

 will not signify when we are moored in Maldonado :" and there 

 was then every prospect of our reaching that port before 

 night. 



Having been often in the river Plata, and once for eight 

 months successively, I had acquired a familiarity with the 

 place, and a disregard for pamperoes, which was not surprising 

 in a young man who had witnessed many, but certainly, as it 

 happened, not one of so serious a nature as to cause any par- 

 ticular impression on his mind. I had not then learned never 

 to despise an enemy. 



At about three o'clock the wind was light, and veering about 

 from north-west to north-east. There was a heavy bank of 

 clouds in tlie south-west, and occasionally lightning was visible 

 even in daylight. Myriads of insects, such as butterflies, 

 dragon-flies, and moths, came off" from the land ; driven, as it 

 appeared, by gusts of heated wind. At four the breeze fresh- 

 ened up from N.N.W., and obliged us to take in all light 

 sails. Maldonado Tower then bore west, and Lobos Island 

 (centre) S.W.b.S. The weather became more unsettled and 

 threatening, though still we had no expectation of any material 

 change before night : but soon after five it became so dark 

 towards the south-west, and the lightning increased so much, 

 that we shortened sail to the reefed topsails and foresail ; still 

 hoping to reach our destination before the pampero began. 

 Shortly before six the upper clouds in the south-west quarter 



