426 PAPUDO — PICHIDANaUE — COKCHALl. April, May. 



from a populous small place called Puchancavi. From this 

 station we sailed to Papudo, a small port rising into repute, 

 on account of copper-mines in its neighbourhood. It is well 

 marked by a high-peaked hill, called Gobernador. Next to 

 Papudo lies Ligua, a place where boats only can go ; farther 

 north, or ' down the coast"' (as they say in Chile and Peru), 

 is Pichidanque, an excellent cove, rather than port, now much 

 used for shipping copper, and formerly a smuggling place ; 

 rendered more notorious by the murder of Burcher, the master 

 of an English smuggling vessel called the Scorpion, who was 

 enticed ashore and assassinated, after which his ship was seized 

 and plundered. This took place in the present century; and 

 an individual, who was said to have taken an active part in 

 the tragedy, was living at Quillota, in 1885. 



Close to Pichidanque is a high pointed hill, called ' Silla"* 

 (from its saddle shape), seeing which distinctly from Valpa- 

 raiso, is said to be a sign of an approaching northerly wind. 



I landed at Conchali after dark on the 30th, leaving the 

 Beagle under sail in the offing. My reception was very hos- 

 pitable ; but the people made sure I was a smuggler ; and 

 some of the principal inhabitants rode with me several miles 

 next morning to the place where my boat was hauled ashore, 

 thinking all the time that I was only waiting for a favourable 

 opportunity to tell them my secret, and make advantageous 

 terms. All this coast, except a few corners, is bold and high, 

 barren and uninteresting ; though picturesque in outline. 



May 2d. Another smuggHng cove, called Quilimari, was 

 examined by me. There is but doubtful landing, and no shel- 

 ter for a vessel ; balsas, however, might do a good deal of work 

 for such a character as I was taken for at Conchali. 



On the 4th, having hastily reconnoitred the coast nearly as 

 far as Coquimbo, we ran into Herradura Cove, and moored 

 ship securely. It was my intention to refit there thoroughly, 

 and prepare the Beagle for receiving a large supply of stores 

 and provisions at Valparaiso, which would enable her to run 

 down the coast to the Galapagos, and thence cross the Pacific 

 to Sydney in Australia. In Herradura she lay quietly close 



