1835. NATIVK GUIDE INDIANS. 443 



quality. We passed over no hills of any consequence as to 

 height, though generally we were ascending or descending. An 

 in-shore circuit was taken, to avoid crossing three rivers, which, 

 near the sea, are difficult to pass ; and having lost our way 

 (notwithstanding the alleged excellence of our guide), a native, 

 almost Indian, was easily prevailed upon to run by the side of 

 our horses until he put us into the right track. Before running 

 through the bushes, he carefully tucked up his loose trousers 

 as high as possible ; thinking, I suppose, that his skin was less 

 likely to be torn than the trousers ; and thus bare-footed and 

 bare-legged he ran before us for several miles with the greatest 

 ease. At the cottage from which he came, a very good horse, 

 in excellent condition, and well cleaned, was standing in a yard. 

 I asked the owner to let me hire or buy him, but he would 

 consent to neither ; alleging that, in the Indian country, his life 

 depended upon having a good horse close at hand. Three 

 thousand Indians had assembled, he told me, and were ex- 

 pected to make an attack upon the Chilian frontier ; but on 

 what particular part was quite uncertain. They had heard of 

 the wreck, and wei*e actually going to the place to plunder 

 the crew, when accidentally met and driven back by Colipi, 

 with his friendly tribe. Dogs seem to be kept at these cottages 

 for the same purpose as those at the ' ranchos,' in the Pampas, 

 namely, to give warning of the approach of enemies. Small 

 parties of Indians seldom or ever attack a house without 

 reconnoitring carefully ; and this they cannot effect if there 

 are many dogs about. 



After our running guide had left us, though put into the 

 right track, we were soon at a loss again ; so numerous were 

 the tracks of horses and cattle in this rich pasture land. The 

 professed guide whom we had brought from Arauco, was more 

 viseful in recovering half-tired horses, than from knowing the 

 way : no sooner did he get upon a horse, which one of my 

 party could not persuade to go out of a walk, than he started 

 off^ at full gallop, exulting in his skill. Perhaps his secret lay 

 in a sharp pair of iron spurs : for the thick skin and coarse 



