1835. FLAX MKKTIXG — CHIEFS. 583 



mingled, and formed a rapidly varying view as we pro» 

 ceeded. 



Mr. Baker had been urged by the natives of Cawa-cawa to 

 visit them, and endeavour to settle a dispute which had arisen 

 with a neighbouring village, or rather tribe. He also wished 

 to gain more advocates for the abolition of spirits ; and I 

 was glad to profit by the opportunity of seeing a little of the 

 natives and their habits, in a place said to be Christianized, 

 and uncontaminated by the spirit- sellers. 



A few of our own countrymen were employing themselves as 

 sawyers, on the banks of the river, near the village of Cawa- 

 cawa ; but neither their huts, their mode of living, nor their 

 outward appearance, caused any feeling of good-will towards 

 them on my part. 



Having ascended the stream, as far as the boat could go, 

 which was about four miles from the salt-water, we landed, and 

 walked towards the village of Cawa-cawa, escorted by several 

 elderly and a mob of young natives. Our way led through 

 open underwood, maize-grounds, and damp swampy soil, in 

 which I saw plenty of the plant called ' flax,' supposed, a few 

 years since, to be very valuable, and noAv probably much 

 undervalued. Across a stream the natives seemed delighted to 

 carry us ; indeed, I may say once for all, that at this village 

 their whole behaviour was affable, friendly, and open, to a 

 degree nearly approaching that of the merry Otaheitans. 



Under the shade of a large tree, the inhabitants of the widely- 

 scattered huts soon assembled. For me they brought a chair 

 out of a cottage ; but for themselves their native soil offered a 

 sufficient place of rest. In all positions, half-enveloped in 

 blankets or coarse country mattings, with their rough, curly 

 hair protecting their heads from the sun's rays, and almost 

 shading their tattowed faces, about a hundred men, women, 

 and children surrounded their apparently most welcome friend 

 ' Payka,' as they called Mr. Baker. Many fine forms and most 

 expressive countenances were there. Such heads, indeed I may 

 say, such a group for a painter ! I had sufficient leisure to 

 admire them ; for it is etiquette in New Zealand to sit in silence 



