May 1828. isrHMUS—sOUTH SEA—C. RAPER. 171 
leaf at rest, combined with the stillness around to give the 
scene a singular air of undisturbed repose. We reached the 
extremity of the inlet, which we found was about six miles 
from its mouth; and thinking that it was the inner shore of an 
isthmus, of no great width, curiosity prompted us to endeavour 
to see its outer shore: so we secured the boat, and accompanied 
by five of the boat’s crew, with hatchets and knives to cut their 
way, and mark the trees to guide us on our way back, we 
plunged into the forest, which was scarcely pervious on account 
of its entangled growth, and the obstructions presented by 
trunks and branches of fallen trees. 
** Our only guide was an occasional glimpse, from the top of 
a tree, of the ranges of mountains, by which we steered our 
course. However, two hours of this sort of work were rewarded 
by finding ourselves in sight of the great South Sea. It would 
be vain to attempt describing adequately the contrast to the 
late quiet scene exhibited by the view we had on emerging 
from this dark wood. The inlet where we left our boat resembled 
a calm and sequestered mountain lake, without a ripple on its 
waters: the shore on which we now stood was that of a horrid 
rock-bound coast, lashed by the awful surf of a boundless 
ocean, impelled by almost unceasing west winds 
‘Our view of the coast was limited on each side by rocky 
mountainous promontories : off the northernmost, which I 
called Cape Raper, were rocks and breakers, extending nearly 
a mile to seaward. Having taken the few bearings our situation 
enabled us to obtain, we retraced our steps to the boat, and 
by aid of the marks we had left on the trees, reached her in an 
hour and forty-three minutes. 
“ Some of the beech-trees of this wood were fifteen feet 
in circumference ; but I noticed none differing in their kind 
from those already observed about Port Otway. A few wrens 
were the only living creatures we saw; not even an insect was 
found in our walk. In the beds of some of the streams inter- 
secting the woods was a singularly sparkling sand, which had 
so much the appearance of gold, that some of our party carried 
