Jan. 1830. RETURN FROM CAPE GLOUCESTER. 377 
inoffensive; but they seemed very distrustful of us, and, before 
sun-rise next morning, were all gone except one man. These 
natives seemed to be very active and went up the mountain in 
about half the time that our party required. They had two 
canoes with them, but how they had reached this place by 
water was puzzling, when the exposed bay they must have 
crossed and the prevailing weather were considered. Perhaps 
they had carried their canoes overland, being rather like the 
Chilote piraguas, made of boards sewed together. 
** 8th. We heard the voices of the Fuegians at day-break 
this morning ; hut at four o’clock only one old man remained, 
who was probably left to watch us. We began our return, 
rather stiff from previous days’ exertions, and looking dismally 
at the high rugged hills between the Beagle and ourselves. The 
first ascent on our way back was the worst of all : how the men 
carried their cargo so well astonished me, for with a very light 
load I was glad to rest frequently. Breakfast revived us, and 
by taking afterwards a better line we avoided the steepest hills 
and found much easier walking. While resting at our meal 
the weather was so clear that I got bearings of Cape Inman 
and other points more than fifty miles distant. here was very 
little variety or novelty in this walk through a Fuegian island. 
The same kind of scenery and the same species of plants and 
shrubs were found which we had seen every where else in 
Tierra del Fuego. Being more or less rocky made the only 
change. Of quadrupeds, excepting otters and dogs, I saw no 
traces, nor do I think any were to be found. A large kind of 
snipe, by some called a woodcock, and quails, of a large and, I 
think, peculiar species, were often seen and shot. The latter 
are not by any means so well tasted as the European quail, 
and their flesh is darker and coarser. At seven this evening we 
were again on board the Beagle, not a little tired. 
*‘ Should any future voyager feel inclined to make a similar 
excursion towards Cape Gloucester, he had better not think 
too lightly of his task. 
“Oth. Mr. Murray returned, having been into many open- 
ings between the islands to the eastward, and having collected 
