The Ectjadokian Capitol. 65 



from the dense forest on the coast, " crossing bridgeless riv- 

 ers, floundering over bottomless roads, and ascending and 

 descending immense mountains." He is astonished to find 

 such elegant edifices and such a proud aristocracy in this 

 lofty lap of the Andes. The Indian habitations which gir- 

 dle the city have no more architectural pretensions than 

 an Arab dwelling. They are low mud hovels, the scene 

 witliin and without of dirt and disorder. 



As we approach the Grand Plaza, the centre of the city, 

 the buildings increase in size, style, and finish. The ordi- 

 nary material is adobe, not only because it is cheap, but 

 also because it best resists earthquake shocks. Fear of a 

 terrenioto has likewise led to a massiveness in construction 

 which is slightly ludicrous when we see the poverty which 

 it protects; the walls are often two or three feet thick. 

 The ground floor is occupied by servants, whose rooms — 

 small enough to be called niches — surromid the paved 

 court-yard, which is entered from the street by a broad 

 doorway. Within this court is sometimes a fountain or 

 flower-plot. Around it are arches or pillars siipporting a 

 gallery, which is the passage-way to the apartments of the 

 second story. All the rooms are floored with large square 

 bricks. With few exceptions, the only windows are fold- 

 ing glass doors leading to balconies overhanging the pave- 

 ment. The tiled roofs project far over into the street, and 

 from these project still further uncouth water-spouts, such 

 as used to be seen in Rio Janeiro, but have now been ban- 

 ished to the antiquarian museum. Only three or four pri- 

 vate residences rise above two stories. The shops are 

 small affairs — akin to the cupboards of Damascene mer- 

 chants ; half a dozen modern ladies can keep out any more 

 customers. The door sei*\'es as entrance, exit, window, and 

 show-case. The finest structures cluster aroiind the plazas. 

 Here are the public buildings, some of them dating back 



E 



