70 The Andes and the Amazon. 



titudes. No gentleman will be seen walking in the streets 

 of Quito under a poncho. Hence citizens are "divided into 

 men with ponchos, and gentlemen with cloaks. The pan- 

 uelon is the most essential article of female gear. It an- 

 swers to the mantilla of the mother country, though it is 

 not worn so gracefully as on the banks of the Tagus. An- 

 dean ladies are not troubled with the distressing fluctua- 

 tions in the style of hats ; a bonnet in Quito is as much 

 out of place as a turban in New York. When the daugh- 

 ter of our late minister resident appeared in the cathedral 

 with one, the innovation was the subject of severe remark. 

 The Spanish hair is the glory of the sex. It is thick and 

 black (red, being a rarity, is considered a beauty), and is 

 braided in two long tresses. A silk dress, satin shoes, and 

 fancy jewelry complete the visible attire of the belles of 

 Quito. 



The ordinary costume of the Indians and Cholos con- 

 sists of a coarse cotton shirt and drawers, and silk, cotton, 

 or woolen poncho of native manufacture, the females add- 

 ing a short petticoat, generally of a light blue or " butter- 

 nut" color, belted around the waist with a figured woolen 

 belt woven by themselves. The head, arms, legs, and feet 

 are often bare, but, by those wlio can afford it, the head is 

 covered with a straw or white felt broad-brim, and the feet 

 protected by sandals, called aljoargates, made of the fibres 

 of the aloe. They are very fond of bracelets and neck- 

 laces. Infants are usually swathed from neck to feet with 

 a broad strip of cloth, so that they look like live mummies. 



Quitonians put us to shame by their unequaled courte- 

 sy, cordiality, and good-nature, and are not far below the 

 grave and decorous Castilian in dignified politeness.* 



* "I must express my admiration at the natural politeness of almost ev- 

 ery Chileno. We met, near Mendoza, a little and very fat negress, riding 

 astride on a mule. She had a goitre so enormous that it was scarcely possi- 



