82 The Andes and the Amazon. 



er-books and French novels (imported, as wanted, for there 

 is not a book-store in the city) are the alpha and the omega 

 of their literature ; Paris is considered the centre of civili- 

 zation. They are comely, but not beautiful ^ Venus has 

 given her girdle of fascination to few. Sensible of this, 

 they paint. 



Holinski gives his impressions by contrasting the faij* 

 Quitonians with the fairer Guayaquilians : " Les yeux vifs 

 et ardent, le pied fine et mignon, les teintes chaudes et do- 

 rees" distinguisli the latter. In the ladies of the high cap- 

 ital there is nothing of this : " Les yeux ne lancent pas de 

 flammes, le pied est sans gentillesse, I'cpiderme ne reflete 

 pas les rayons du soliel." The ladies on the coast take all 

 possible pains to preserve the small size of the foot ; a large 

 foot is held in horror. Yon Tschudi once overheard some 

 ladies extolling in high terms the beauty of an English 

 lady ; all their praise, however, ending with this exclama- 

 tion, " But what a foot ! Good heavens ! it is like a great 

 boat !" Gibbon is continually talking of beautiful senoras 

 and senoritas on the Andes; surely the lieutenant is in 

 sport.* 



The ladies of Quito give few entertainments for lack of 

 ready money. They spend much of their time in needle- 

 work and gossip, sitting like Turkish sultanas on divans or 

 the floor. They do not rise at your entrance or departure. 

 They converse in a very loud, unmusical voice. "We never 

 detected bashfulness in the street or parlor. They go to 

 mass every morning, and make visits of etiquette on Sun- 

 days. They take more interest in political than in domes- 

 tic affairs. Dust and cobwebs are unmistakable signs of 

 indifference. Brooms are rarities ; such as exist are besoms 



* "The young ladies of Cuzco are, in general, very beautiful, with regular 

 features, fresh olive complexions, bright eyes full of intelligence, furnished 

 with long lashes, and masses of black hair plaited in two tails. " — Marhham. 



