90 The Andes and the Amazon. 



there who knows how to ring them." Foreign machinery 

 is sprinkled with holy water to neutralize the inherent her- 

 esy ; but a miller, for example, will charge more for his 

 flour after the baptism. 



Lotteries are countenanced by both Church and State, 

 and in turn help support them ; we saw one " grand scheme" 

 carried out on the cathedral terrace and defended by bay- 

 onets. 



At half past nine in the morning all Quito is on its knees, 

 as the great bell of the cathedral announces the elevation 

 of the Host. The effect is astonishing. Eiders stop then" 

 horses; foot-passengers drop down on the pavement; the 

 cook lets go her dishes and the writer his pen ; the mer- 

 chant lays aside his measure and the artisan his tool; the 

 half -uttered oath {ccmijo !) dies on the lips of the Cholo ; the 

 arm of the cruel Zambo, unmercifully beating his donkey, 

 is paralyzed ; and the smart repartee of the lively donna 

 is cut short. The solemn stillness lasts for a minute, when 

 the bell tolls again, and all rise to work or play. Holidays 

 are frequent. Processions led by a crucifix or wooden im- 

 age are attractive sights in this dull city, simply because 

 little else is going on. Occasionally a girl richly dressed 

 to represent the humble mother of God is drawn about in 

 a carriage, and once a year the figures of the Virgin be- 

 longing to different churches are borne with much pomp 

 to the Plaza, where they bow to each other like automatons. 



" This is a bad country to live in, and a worse one to die 

 in," said Dr. Jameson. But times have changed, even in 

 fossil Quito. Through the efforts of our late minister, Hon. 

 W. T. Coggeshall, the bigoted government has at last con- 

 sented to inclose a quarter of an acre outside the city for 

 the subterranean burial of heretics. The cemetery is on 

 the edge of- the beautiful plain of Ifiaquito, and on the 

 right of the road leading to Guapolo. " What a shame," 



