RiOBAMBA. 153 



the barrenness of tlie landscape but hedges of century 

 plant, cactus, and wild heliotrope, which border the roads. 

 AVhirlwinds of sand are often seen moving over the plain. 

 The mean temperature is 61°. 5. Here exist, we can not 

 say thrive, the cities of Riobamba, Ambato, and Tacunga, 

 already noticed. Riobamba,* properly Rayobamba, the 

 plain of lightning, was founded at the beginning of this 

 century, or shortly after the destruction of the old city. 

 Excepting the ecclesiastical buildings, the houses are of 

 one story, built of stone plastered with mud, sometimes of 

 adobe or bamboo, and the windows are grated like those 

 of a prison. As in all Spanish- American towns, the main 

 church fronts the great Plaza where the w^eekly fairs are 

 held. Save on fair-day, the city is lifeless. Nothing is 

 exported to the coast except a few eggs and fowls, lard 

 and potatoes. Such is the power of habit, an Indian will 

 take a hen to Bodegas and sell it for four reals (50 cents) 

 when he could get three for it in Riobamba, and six on 

 the road. Another instance of this dogged adherence to 

 custom was related to us by Dr. Taylor: The Indians were 

 accustomed to bring the curate of a certain village a bun- 

 dle of alfalfa every day. A new curate, having no use 

 for so much, ordered them not to bring any more. He 

 was besieged by five hundred of his wild parishioners, and 

 had he not been a powerful man, they would have killed 

 him. They told him they were accustomed to bring the 

 curate that much of alfalfa, and should continue. 



Old Riobamba (Cajabamba) is situated twelve miles to 

 the west. This has been the scene of some of the most 

 terrible paroxysms that e\-er shook the Andes. In 1797 a 

 part of Mount Cicalfa was throwm down, crushing the city 

 at its foot ; hills arose where valleys existed ; rivers disap- 



* According to Villavicencio, Rio (or Ric) is Quichua for road ; bamha is 

 plain. 



