Akkival, at the Pacific. 403 



tres of vast plantations of sugar, rice, and coffee. Mr. 

 Meiggs formerly owned a sugar estate here of 15,000 

 acres. The price of land all depends upon whether it is 

 under irrigation. As along the whole of this coast, the 

 prevailing wind is from the southwest, attaining its max- 

 imum at 3 P.M. ; and as it follows the cold " Humboldt- 

 current," the temperature seldom exceeds 85°, descending 

 to 60°. The tide rises four feet. The only thorns in the 

 flesh are jiggers and fleas. 



Upon arriving at Pacasmayo, weary and worn by our 

 long tramp over the mountains, we were received by the 

 managers of the road, Messrs. Faulkner and Maynadier, 

 and by Dr. Heath of the hospital, with such unbounded 

 hospitality that we are totally unable to " meet our obliga- 

 tions," and accordingly " suspend payment." Thrice hap- 

 py the American traveler who can fall into such a frater- 

 nity at the close of his voyage ! 



But on to the capital ! For he who has not seen Lima 

 has not seen Peru ; or, as they say of another city, 



" Quien no ha visto a Sevilla, 

 No ha visto a maravilla." 



From Iquitos to the sea, I received repeated injunctions 

 from the natives not to miss Lima — a standing wonder in 

 this part of the world. I confess that it eclipsed my ex- 

 pectations, and justified the sobriquet of "Little Paris." 

 It is highly favored in its position— a green spot- on an 

 arid coast ; and in its approach from the clear, placid Pa- 

 cific, contrasting with the misty and stormy coasts of the 

 Atlantic. Then, too, the traveler from the mountains, who 

 has been feeding on chujpe and chicka, and balancing his 

 worn body on a reckless mule, or a horse that has nearly 

 reverted to the wild state, transferred to a sumptuous En- 

 glish steamer, is put into the best of humor, and is ready 

 to bow down to almost any sign of civilization. 



