The City of the Kings. 405 



ping ; and forthwith a muhitude of black specks fly over 

 the surface of the harbor. These are the boats, all of 

 which have come to take you in particular. In lungs and 

 pertinacity, the Callao boatmen are a match for the Mal- 

 tese. You land, to your astonishment, on a splendid con- 

 crete mole of English construction (984 by 820 feet) ; and 

 near-by is a floating dock, as good as any in New York, 

 also of Anglo-Saxon creation. You mingle with the bus- 

 tling crowd to find that every other man speaks English 

 or French, In fact, Valparaiso and Callao are fast be- 

 coming European. The city numbers about 18,000. En- 

 gland has the preponderance of trade; then the United 

 States, Peru, France, and Italy. In 1872, 149 British ves- 

 sels entered port, having a tonnage of 128,000 ; from the 

 United States, 119 ; tonnage, 124,000. North American 

 cargoes consist chiefly of lumber, coal, railway material, 

 wheat, cattle, and ice. About 50,000 passengers enter, 

 and as many leave, every year. 



A railway ride of half an hour brings you to the " City 

 of the Kings."* After the excellent descriptions of Lima 

 by Stevenson, Tschudi, Markham, Fuentes, and Hutchin- 

 son, it is unnecessary to go into particulars. The rock 

 near the convent of the barefooted friars affords the best 

 panoramic view of the city. Its circumference is ten 

 miles, covering 14,000,000 square yards, half of which is 

 for dwellings, and the rest devoted to plazas, gardens, and 

 public buildings. The population can not be far from 

 120,000, including 6000 in priestly garb. Probably no 

 other city in the world, not even Constantinople, can pre- 

 sent such a variety of physiognomy and complexion. It 

 is a variegated mass of humanity, like the colored sands on 

 the Isle of Wight. Over twenty-five varieties of people 



* La Ciudad de los Reyes, so named by Pizarro because he founded it on 

 Epiphany Sunday, 1535. 



