The City of Akequipa. 419 



tliedral, which occupies one side of the Plaza, is quite im- 

 posing even without its towers, which were thrown down 

 by the earthquake. The eight massive Ionic columns 

 which decorate the fagade stood the shock. The cathe- 

 dral, the university (now a heap of ruins), and all the bet- 

 ter class of public and private edifices, are of white tra- 

 chyte ; the rest are of whitewashed adobe. The roofs and 

 ceilings are vaulted with stone, so that when the earth- 

 quake comes, down go the domes. Galvanized iron is 

 now coming into use, and hereafter the earthquake will 

 not have such a fair chance. The dwelling-houses are 

 all of one stamp, single-storied and domed, with windows 

 barred with iron. The wide, arched entrance leads to an 

 open, quadrangular court^ or ^atio. Two hotels have re- 

 cently been opened. The streets are generally broad and 

 paved, and provided with sidewalks and gutters. 



Founded by Pizarro in 1540, Arequipa is the second 

 city in Peru, and the rival of Lima. The citizens, num- 

 bering 40,000, are as noted for their revolutionary spirit 

 as the ground for its earthquakes. They are dependent 

 for most of their food upon more favored towns along the 

 coast. Water for irrigation is so scarce that tillable land 

 is worth $1200 an acre. There is no industry ; it is only 

 a dry port for the interior. The chief trade is in alpaca, 

 of which 25,000 quintals are annually exported. The head 

 mercantile houses are a few English and German firms. 

 The city has waked into new life since the railway and 

 telegraph have brought it to the sea-shore. 



From Arequipa to Puno is 218 miles. Leaving the city 

 by a long iron bridge of Baltimore make, the train made 

 a steep ascent, first over a gray, barren waste, and through 

 fearful qiiehradas, then among trachytic rocks and colored 

 cinders in endless confusion, evidently fi-om the suspicious- 

 looking peak of Chichani, and again around fortress-like 



