Travel on the Amazons. 617 



" rising like vast supernatural intelligences taking a materi- 

 al shape, and drawing around themselves a drapery of aw- 

 ful grandeur." If a traveler can ascend the one and cross 

 the other without having his soul filled with a new world 

 of ideas and sentiments, verily his sight must be a vacant 

 stare, and his heart a nether millstone. 



Nor is this route utterly barren of history. Who has 

 not heard of Orellana's famous voyage from Quito to 

 Para ? Who has not wept over the tragic episodes in the 

 strange fortunes of the Incas, and read with indignation, 

 yet with intensest interest, the chronicles of Pizarro and 

 his iron-hearted adventurers in search of the Gilded King 

 — chronicles more wonderful than Eastern romance, yet 

 historically true ? 



In the following itinerary of a tour across South Amer- 

 ica, I describe a route which may be followed in perfect 

 safety, with tlie least diflficulty and the greatest satisfaction. 

 In my judgment, the journey is as healthful as a pilgrim- 

 age to Egypt, and far more refreshing than any numbei' 

 of wanderings in the Adirondacks. 



Of course, there will be vexations of spirit and body ; 

 but the true traveler expects to rough it. The fastidious, 

 silken tourist should stay at home. The Amazons steam- 

 ers set an excellent table, the better the nearer Para: the 

 staples are beef, turtle, rice, beans, farina, bread (except 

 near the end of the voyage), coffee, and dulce. But on 

 the mountains one must make up his mind to relish chujpe 

 (Indian stew), boiled corn and black beans, and to sleep 

 on a sheep-skin or something worse. The dangers from 

 wild beasts are mainly imaginary: the largest animals in 

 South America I do not care to meet again are mosqui- 

 toes. "There is much more danger" (said Livingstone) 

 " of being run over when walking in the streets of London, 

 than of being devoured by lions in Africa, unless in hunt- 



