620 The Andes and the Amazons. 



steamer stops six days. Here are the government iron- 

 works of Peru, carried on by English mechanics. You 

 will reach Yurimagnas, October 6th. 



From Yurimagnas you may follow Herndon's track, if 

 you choose, taking canoe up the Huallaga to Tingo Maria, 

 and then by mule to Lima. But I advise an easier route : 

 hire a boat and three Indians ($20) for Balsa Puerto; 

 time, five days. Thence foot it four days to Moyobaraba. 

 These " views afoot " will be grievous for the time being, 

 but pleasant memories forever after, and will give you an 

 inkling of South-American life and travel. Moyobamba 

 is a city of nearly ten thousand people, who are busy mak- 

 ing hats. You will wish to enjoy the genial climate, and 

 the novelty of this unfrequented spot on the slope of the 

 Andes, for at least a week.* I therefore set the time of 

 your departure at October 17th. The price of a mule 

 from Moyobamba to Chachapoyas is $8 or $10 ; time, six 

 days. A mule is better than a horse for mouTitain-travel, 

 as the former is more cautious, and never loses its presence 

 of mind. However, the rider must look out for himself, 

 as it is none of the mule's concern if he be brushed off by 

 an overhanging tree or projecting rock. On this journey, 

 food can be procured only at Rioca and Taulia. To in- 

 sure a shelter .at Chachapoyas, the traveler should bring 

 with him a letter to the Prefect from the Peruvian Minis- 

 ter at Washington. From Chachapoyas to Leimabamba is 

 a good road ; time, two days ; $4 50 per beast. Sleep at 

 Tingo. From Leimabamba to Balsas, two days ; $3 per 

 beast, and $2 for the arriero. At Leimabamba you can 

 sometimes get a little corn, beans, eggs, and potato-soup; 



* From Moyobamba to Tarapoto by mnle, three to five days, $5 to $10 ; 

 Tarapoto to Chasuta, one day, $1 ; Chasuta by canoe to Yurimagnas, two 

 days and one night, five Indians $4 each and food, and ,f 10 for canoe. In 

 Moyobamba, Chachapoyas, and Cajamarca, the only " hotels " are restaurants 

 kept by Chinamen. 



