136 TRAVELS IN BRAZIL. 



blocks of granite, or in the upper story, of wood, 

 and covered with tiles. Instead of the old latticed 

 doors and windows, we already see everywhere 

 complete doors, and glass windows. The gloomy 

 projecting cabinets before the windows, closed, ac- 

 cording to oriental custom, have made way by 

 the king's command, for open balconies. The 

 streets are, for the most part, paved with granite, 

 and provided with raised pavement for the foot- 

 passengers ; but they are very sparingly lighted, 

 and hardly more than a few hours in the night, by 

 the lamps placed before the images of the Virgin 

 Mary. From the regularity of the streets it is 

 agreeable to the eye to meet with several open 

 squares, such as those before the royal palace, be- 

 fore the theatre, the public promenade (jpasseio 

 publico), or the Campo de S. Anna. 



The hills along the north-eastern bank are 

 partly covered with large buildings ; the former 

 college of the Jesuits, the convent of the Bene- 

 dictines, on the most north-easterly hill, then the 

 episcopal palace, and the Forte da Concei9ao, have 

 a grand appearance, especially when seen from the 

 sea. The residence formerly occupied by the 

 viceroys, which, after the arrival of the court 

 from Lisbon, was enlarged by the addition of the 

 Carmelite convent, and fitted up for the royal 

 family, stands in the plain, opposite to the above- 

 mentioned molo. This building is by no means 

 in the grand style of European palaces, and its ex- 



