TRAVELS IN BRAZIL. 215 



the aloes shoot up their lofty flowering stems. Tlie 

 country is level up to the foot of the mountain ; 

 only an insulated verdant conical rock in the vici- 

 nity of the royal seat is a picturesque object rising 

 above the variegated gardens and plantations. To 

 the west of the road, a new aqueduct conveys the 

 water, of a stream from the mountains into the 

 city. Citizens and peasants, on foot and on horse- 

 back, and frequently two persons mounted on one 

 beast, give great animation to the road, on which 

 the carriages of the rich people can only go as far 

 as S. Cristovao. It is pleasing to see in this para- 

 dise the traces of European industry, diligently cul- 

 vated land, and beautiful country-houses. As- 

 cending the verdant slope of the mountain, and 

 between numerous country-seats, along a moun- 

 tain stream which turned several mills, we at last 

 reached the summit, where the fatigue of the jour- 

 ney was rewarded with a fine view towards the- 

 suburb of S. Cristovao. The day was drawing to 

 a close when we arrived, and, tired with our walk, 

 we wished to find a lodging for the night. There 

 was indeed a venda on the road, but it afforded 

 only tobacco, rum, biscuit, and Minas cheese, and 

 no accommodation ; we were therefore obliged to 

 seek refuge at the seat of a Frenchman of our ac- 

 quaintance, which lay to the side of the road. The 

 narrow path first conducted us upwards near a 

 deep valley, and at last to the house in the middle 

 of the wood, where we were obliged to content 



p 4 



