238 LOMBOCK. [chap. x. 



Leaving Bileling, a pleasant sail of two days brought 

 us to Ampanam in the island of Loinbock, where I pro- 

 posed to remain till I could obtain a passage to Macassar. 

 We enjoyed superb views of the twin volcanoes of Bali 

 and Lombock, each about eight thousand feet high, which 

 form magnificent objects at sunrise and sunset, when they 

 rise out of the mists and clouds that surround their bases, 

 glowing with the rich and changing tints of these the 

 most charming moments in a tropical day. 



The bay or roadstead of Ampanam is extensive, and 

 being at this season sheltered from the prevalent south- 

 easterly winds, was as smooth as a lake. The beach of 

 black volcanic sand is very steep, and there is at all times 

 a heavy surf upon it, which during spring-tides increases 

 to such an extent that it is often impossible for boats to 

 land, and many serious accidents have occurred. Where 

 we lay anchored, about a quarter of a mile from the shore, 

 not the slightest swell was perceptible, but on approaching 

 nearer undulations began, which rapidly increased, so as to 

 form rollers which toppled over on to the beach at regular 

 intervals with a noise like thunder. Sometimes this surf 

 increases suddenly during perfect calms, to as great a force 

 and fury as when a gale of wind is blowing, beating to 

 pieces all boats that may not have been hauled sufficiently 

 high upon the beach, and carrying away incautious natives. 

 This violent surf is probably in some way dependent on 



