chap, xvii.] PRETTY VILLAGES. 383 



in his chaise, and Mr. Neys accompanied me on horseback 

 three miles further to the village of Lotta. Here we met 

 the Controlleur of the district of Tondano, who was return- 

 ing home from one of his monthly tours, and who had 

 agreed to act as my guide and companion on the journey. 

 From Lotta we had an almost continual ascent for six 

 miles, which brought us on to the plateau of Tondano at 

 an elevation of about 2,400 feet. We passed through three 

 villages whose neatness and beauty quite astonished me. 

 The main road, along which all the coffee is brought down 

 from the interior in carts drawn by buffaloes, is always 

 turned aside at the entrance of a village, so as to pass 

 behind it, and thus allow the village street itself to be kept 

 neat and clean. This is bordered by neat hedges often 

 formed entirely of rose-trees, which are perpetually in 

 blossom. There is a broad central path and a border of fine 

 turf, which is kept well swept and neatly cut. The houses 

 are all of wood, raised about six feet on substantial posts 

 neatly painted blue, while the walls are whitewashed. They 

 all have a verandah enclosed with a neat balustrade, and are 

 generally surrounded by orange-trees and flowering shrubs. 

 The surrounding scenery is verdant and picturesque. 

 Coffee plantations of extreme luxuriance, noble palms and 

 tree ferns, wooded hills and volcanic peaks, everywhere 

 meet the eye. I had heard much of the beauty of this 

 country, but the reality far surpassed my expectations. 



