chap, xvii.] VILLAGE OF RURUKAN. 385 



bark as his sole costume, and lived in a rude hut raised on 

 lofty poles, and abundantly decorated with human heads. 

 Of course we were expected, and our dinner was prepared 

 in the best style, but I was assured that the chiefs all 

 take a pride in adopting European customs, and in being 

 able to receive their visitors in a handsome manner. 



After dinner and coffee, the Controlleur went on to 

 Tondano, and I strolled about the village waiting for my 

 baggage, which was coming in a bullock-cart and did not 

 arrive till after midnight. Supper was very similar to 

 dinner, and on retiring I found an elegant little room 

 with a comfortable bed, gauze curtains with blue and red 

 hangings, and every convenience. Next morning at sun- 

 rise the thermometer in the verandah stood at 69°, which 

 I was told is about the usual lowest temperature at this 

 place, 2,500 feet above the sea. I had a good breakfast 

 of coffee, eggs, and fresh bread and butter, which I took in 

 the spacious verandah, amid the odour of roses, jessamine, 

 and other sweet-scented flowers, which filled the garden 

 in front ; and about eight o'clock left Tomohon with a 

 dozen men carrying my baggage. 



Our road lay over a mountain ridge about 4,000 feet 

 above the sea, and then descended about 500 feet to the 

 little village of Kuriikan, the highest in the district of 

 Minahasa, and probably in all Celebes. Here I had de- 

 termined to stay for some time to see whether this eleva- 



vol. I. c c 



