1832-3. MALDONADO. 47 



foreigners. I was asked whether the earth or sun moved ; 

 whether it was hotter or colder to the north ; where Spain 

 was, and many other such questions. The greater number 

 of the inhabitants had an indistinct idea that England, Lon- 

 don, and North America, were different names for the same 

 place ; but the better informed well knew that London and 

 North America were separate countries close together, and 

 that England was a large town in London ! I carried with 

 me some promethean matches, which I ignited by biting ; it 

 was thought so wonderful that a man should strike fire with 

 his teeth, that it was usual to collect the Avhole family to see 

 it : I was once offered a dollar for a single one. Washing: 

 my face in the morning, caused much speculation at the 

 village of Las Minas ; a superior tradesman closely cross- 

 questioned me about so singular a practice ; and likewise 

 why on board we wore our beards ; for he had heard from 

 my guide that we did so. He eyed me with much suspicion ; 

 perhaps he had heard of ablutions in the Mahomedan re- 

 ligion, and knowing me to be a heretick, probably he came 

 to the conclusion that all hereticks were Turks. It is the 

 general custom in this country to ask for a night's lodging 

 at the first convenient house. The astonishment at the 

 compass, and my other feats in jugglery, was to a certain 

 degree advantageous, as with that, and the long stories my 

 guides told of my breaking stones, knowing venemous from 

 harmless snakes, collecting insects, &c., I repaid them for 

 their hospitality. I am writing as if I had been among the 

 inhabitants of central Africa: Banda Oriental would not 

 be flattered by the comparison ; but such were my feelings 

 at the time. 



The next day we rode to the village of Las Minas. The 

 country was rather more hilly, but otherwise continued the 

 same ; an inhabitant of the Pampas no doubt would have 

 considered it as truly Alpine. The country is so thinly 

 inhabited, that during the whole day we scarcely met a single 

 person. Las Minas is much smaller even than Maldonado. 

 It is seated on a little plain, and is surrounded by low rocky 



