48 MALDONADO. 1832-3. 



mountains. It is of the usual symmetrical form ; and ^vith 

 its whitewashed church standing in the centre, had rather a 

 pretty appearance. The outskirting houses rose out of the 

 plain like isolated beings, without the accompaniment of 

 gardens or courtyards. Tliis is generally the case in the 

 country, and all the houses have, in consequence, an uncom- 

 fortable aspect. At night we stopped rat a pulperia, or 

 drinking-shop. During the evening a great number of 

 Gauchos came in to drink spirits and smoke cigars : their 

 appearance is very striking; they are generally tall and 

 handsome, but with a proud and dissolute expression of 

 countenance. They frequently wear their moustaches, and 

 long black hair curling down their backs. With their 

 brightly-coloured garments, great spurs clanking about their 

 heels, and knives stuck as daggers (and often so used) 

 at their waists, they look a very diiferent race of men from 

 what might be expected from their name of Gauchos, or 

 simple countrymen. Their politeness is excessive : they 

 never drink their spirits without expecting you to taste 

 it; but whilst making their exceedingly graceful bow, 

 they seem quite as ready, if occasion offered, to cuty our 

 throat. 



On the third day we pursued rather an irregular course, as 

 I was employed in examining some beds of marble. On the 

 fine plains of turf we saw many ostriches {Struthio Rhea). 

 Some of the flocks contained as many as twenty or thirty 

 birds. These, when standing on any httle eminence, and 

 seen against the clear sky, presented a very noble appear- 

 ance. I never met with such tame ostriches in any other 

 part of the country : it was easy to gallop up within a short 

 distance of them ; but then, expanding their wings, they 

 made all sail right before the wind, and soon left the horse 

 astern. 



At night we came to the house of Don Juan Fuentes, a 

 rich landed proprietor, but not personally known to either 

 of my companions. On approaching the house of a stranger, 

 it is usual to follow several little pieces of etiquette : riding 



