Feb. 1835. Indians. 367 



portraits of James the First ; but very likely the resemblance 

 may be imaginary. On the road we met with none of 

 that humble politeness so universal in Chiloe. Some gave 

 their " mari mari" (good morning) with promptness, but the 

 greater number did not seem inclined to offer any salute. 

 This independence of manners is probably a consequence 

 of their long wars, and the repeated victories which they 

 alone of all the tribes in America have gained over the 

 Spaniards. 



I spent the evening very pleasantly, talking with the padre. 

 He was exceedingly kind and hospitable ; and coming from 

 Santiago, had contrived to surround himself with some few 

 comforts. Being a man of some little education, he bitterly 

 complained of the total want of society. With no particular 

 zeal for religion, no business or pursuit, how completely 

 must this man's life be wasted ! Finding nothing which 

 tempted me either to stay or to proceed, the next day we set 

 out on our return through the forest. We met on the road 

 seven very wild Indians. Amongst them were some caciques, 

 who had been receiving a yearly stipend, which is paid to 

 some who have long remained faithful. They were fine- 

 looking men, and they rode one after the other, with most 

 gloomy faces. An old cacique, who headed them, had been, 

 I suppose, more excessively drunk than the rest, for he 

 seemed both extremely grave and very crabbed. Shortly 

 before this, two Indians joined us, who were travelling from 

 a distant mission to Valdivia, concerning some laAvsuit. One 

 was a good-humoured old man, but from his wrinkled 

 beardless face looked more like an old woman than a man. 

 I frequently presented both of them with cigars ; and 

 though ready to receive them, and I dare say grateful, they 

 would hardly condescend to thank me. A Chilotan Indian 

 would have taken off his hat and given his " Dios le 

 page !" (May God repay you !) — The travelling was very 

 tedious, both from the badness of the roads, and from the 

 number of great fallen trees, which it was necessary either 

 to leap over, or to avoid by making long circuits. We slept 



