382 



CHAPTER XVII. 



Valparaiso — Passage of Andes by Portillo pass — Sagacity of mules — 

 Mountain torrents — Mines, how discovered — Marine alluvium in val- 

 leys — Effect of snow on surface — Geology, fossil shells, double range, 

 two periods of elevation — Red snow — Winds on the crest — Snow thaw- 

 ing in pinnacles — Dry and clear atmosphere — Electricity — Pampas — 

 Zoology of opposite sides of Andes — Uniformity of Patagonia — Locusts 

 — Great bugs — Mendoza — Uspallata — Silicified trees in vertical posi- 

 tion — Indian ruins — Change of climate — Earthquake arching bed of 

 river — Cumbre — Valparaiso. 



PASSAGE OF CORDILLERA. 



March 7th, 1835. — We staid only three days at Con- 

 cepcion, and then sailed for Valparaiso. The wind being 

 northerly, we only reached the mouth of the harbour of Con- 

 cepciou before it was dark. Being very near the land, and 

 a fog coming on, the anchor was dropped. Presently a large 

 American whaler appeared close alongside of us ; and we 

 heard the Yankee swearing at his men, to make them keep 

 quiet, whilst he listened where the breakers were. Captain 

 FitzRoy hailed him in a loud clear voice, to anchor where 

 he then was. The poor man must have thought the voice 

 came from the shore : such a Babel of cries issued at once 

 from the ship — every one hallooing out, " Let go the 

 anchor ! veer cable ! shorten sail \" It was the most laugh- 

 able thing I ever heard. If the ship's crew had been all 

 captains, and no men, there covdd not have been a greater 

 uproar of orders. We afterwards found that the mate 

 stuttered. I suppose aU hands were assisting him in giving 

 his orders. 



On the 11th we anchored at Valparaiso; and two days 

 afterwards I set out on an excursion to cross the Cordillera. 

 I proceeded to Santiago, where Mr. Caldcleugh most kindly 



