March, 1835. portillo pass. 383 



assisted me in every possible way, in making the little pre- 

 parations which were necessary. In this immediate part of 

 Chile there are two passes across the Andes to Mendoza, 

 and the plains on the opposite side. The one most com- 

 monly used, namely, that of Aconcagua, or Uspallata, is 

 situated some way to the northward of the capital : the other, 

 called the Portillo, is to the southward, and less distant. 

 The latter is, however, rather more lofty, and from the double 

 chain, more dangerous during a snow-storm. For these 

 reasons it is but little used, especially late in the season. 



March 18th. — We set out for the Portillo pass. Leaving 

 Santiago we crossed the wide burnt-up plain on which that 

 city stands, and in the afternoon arrived at the Maypo, one 

 of the principal rivers in Chile. The valley, at the point 

 where it enters the first Cordillera, is bounded on each side 

 by lofty barren mountains; and although not broad, it is 

 very fertile. Numerous cottages were surrounded by vines, 

 and by orchards of apple, nectarine, and peach trees ; the 

 boughs of the latter breaking with the weight of the beautiful 

 ripe fruit. 



In the evening we passed the custom-house, where our 

 luggage was examined. The frontier of Chile is better guarded 

 by the Cordillera, than by the waters of the sea. There are 

 very few valleys which lead to the central ranges, and, ex- 

 cept by these, the mountains are far too steep and lofty 

 for any beast of burden to pass over them. The custom- 

 house officers were very civil; which was perhaps partly 

 owing to the passport which the President of the republic 

 had given me; but I must also express my admiration at 

 the natural politeness of almost every Chileno. In this 

 instance the contrast with the same class of men in most 

 other countries was strongly marked. I may mention an 

 anecdote with which I was much pleased at the time. We 

 met near Mendoza a httle and very fat negress, riding astride 

 on a mule. She had a goitre so enormous, that it was 

 scarcely possible to avoid gazing at her for a moment ; but 

 my two companions almost instantly, by way of apology, 



