_.v_ _ . 



-^^\- -\\ -. -^ I -H-1- f-*^n— J-" 



^ ■ -. 



^. 1^ L 



28 



Etluiograpliische Miszellen II: 4. Mey er & Hichtcr, Webgeriit aus dem Ostludisclieii Archipole 



^ 



„stokjes'' erwaliuen weder Horsburgli iiochHaddon nochWray nocli Jasper in dor Schildoning des Farbe- 

 verfahreiis. Bei Horsburgli 43 wird das Farben, wie folgt, besclirieben: „Slie tfikes up a dozen or a score 

 of the tlireads of the web (according as the exigencies of the pattern will permit her) and wraps a quantity 

 of vegetable tibro tightly round those parts of them which are intended to bo red and yellow^ leaving 

 exposed those portions which are intended to be blue. After she has in this manner gone over the whole 



F 



web, she immerses it in a blue dye^ which, while it takes hold of the exposed portions of the threads, is 



r 



prevented by the vegetable fibre from colouring those portions which are intended to be red and yellow. 

 After it has been dried the vegetable fibre is cut off; and when the web is now stretched out the -blue 

 portion of tlio pattern is seen depicted. In a similar manner the red and y(illow colours are applied, and 

 thus the whole wob is dyed of the required pattern. The weft is of one uniform colour, generally brown." 

 Aus Haddons Schilderung 1900 S. 7;-J sei das Folgende angeftihrt: „The warp is stretched on a frame, 

 the woman takes the first fifteen to tliirty strands and ties them tightly with strips of leaves at irregular 

 intervals, according to the design, which she carries in her memory. The next fifteen to thirty strands 

 are similarly tied, and this process is repeated until all the threads have been utilised. The warp is then 

 removed from the frame and dipped in a reddish dye, which colours the free portions of the warp, but 

 the tied-up portions remiun undyed; thus a light pattern is left on a coloured back-ground, when the 

 lashing is untied. If a three-colour design is required . . ., the first lashing is retained, and various portions 

 of the previously dyed warp are tied up; the whole is immersed in a black dye, aud then both sets of 

 lashing are untied. The pattern is thus entirely produced in the warp, the woof is self-coloured." Bei 

 Wray S. 154 (vgl. auch S. 153) heiBt es, wie folgt: „lt [the warp] is tlien soparat(>d into distinct bundles 

 of perhaps one hundred threads each, and tliesc bundles are tied at either end on the frame. The number 

 of bundles of thread is determined by the width of the cloth to be woven, and as about fifty threads go 

 to the inch and five threads from each bundle are taken, it requires ten bundles per inch of width. Where 

 a strip of the same pattern is repeated in the design, larger bundles of thread are required for that portion 

 than, when it only occurs once. The bundles of thread having been arranged on the frame, the coveri 



iiig 



up with w^axed thread for the narrow bands of colour and with strips of banana stem for the broad bands 



. . . The thread or banana stem is bound tightly round the bundles of silk and is tied with 



is begun 



what is known as an upholsterer's knot . . . The tieiug is a very long and tedious process, as may be 

 imagined. As before mentioned everytliing except the portions of the silk threads which arc to form the 

 ground is covered in the first instance. Two strings are tlien threaded through the loops of the bundles 

 along the side of the bamboos, so that the position of the bundles may remain the same during the 

 process of dyeing. The bamboo frame is then untied and the silk removed from it . . . When the ground 

 is finished the bundles of silk are rearranged as before on the bamboo frame. Then all the parts which 

 are to be yellow are uncovered. These are then dyed by the local application of the yellow dye 

 The other colours of the pattern are dyed successively in the same way, until the whole are finished, then 

 the covering is removed from the wliite portions." Jasper schildert S. 350ff. das Farboverfahren in 

 folgender Weise: „Naar die voorteekening nu Iiebben do plaatsolijko omwendingon met 'ageF plaats. Do 

 draden worden bij tweeeu of drieen te gelijk zoodanig met het agel-touw vast-omslingerd, dat alio godeeltcn 

 die na een eerste onderdompeling van het zijdo in een kleurstof, Avit moeten bJijven, goheel bedokt ziju 

 't Is een work van immens geduld, van lastige berokening, van laugen duur, maar van hooge en odele 

 artisticiteit. Na maanden lang gepeutert en gewriemeld te hebben met ageltouwtjes tusschon de stijf 

 aaneengesloten rijen van zijdon draden, heeft de Javaansclie artist, die deze allennooiliikste beziglield op 

 zich heeft genomen^ zijn welverdiende rust, laat hij het tjeloep en het daarna weer iosmaken der ageiom- 

 windingen aan anderen over on wacht hij het oogenblik af, waarop hij weer aan den slag zal gaan voor 



Wanncer deze arbeid afgeloopon is, dient natuurlijk de eerste 

 onderdompeling plaats te hebben en is het zaak alle draden in denzelfdcn stand to beliouden, die zii 

 hebben op de penampikkan. 



ingericht, dat de boven- en benedoulat, die dus eigenlijk h(^t garen stijf houden, door hot uittrekken van 

 eenige houten pinnen gemakkelijk weggeschoven kuimen Avordcn. In dit geval komt dus een breede, dubbelo 

 en stijf omwonden strong van zijden draden vrij, die dadelijk in haar gehoel in do verfkuip wordt gedoopt. 

 Is dus zoo de eerste kleur opgebracht^ dan wordt het dubbele dradenvlak weer aan het scheerraam 



het verder detailleeren der teokening 



» t « 



De workman, hierop rokenend, heeft het houten raam dan ook zoodanig 





I 





^ ^ 





_ ^ jTr^_ _ _ 



^ _■ jr.r-^ 



