EXPLORATION OF LEW CHEW. 61 



Our road from this village, crossing the promontory, was a very good one, overhung mostly by 

 an avenue of pines, and lying through a rich and varied country, now beautifully tinted by the 

 declining sun, while the softness and quiet of eventide were descending on the scene. Just be- 

 fore sunset we arrived at Farnigi, a kung-qua town perched upon the hills ; and as it was ex- 

 pected that our journey would again extend into the night, torches and torch-bearers were here 

 again provided to light us on our way. Proceeding on, we reached, about two miles from 

 Farnigi, the waters on the north side of the promontory; and here our guide was taking us to the 

 left, under a misapprehension that we wished to go to the town of Port Melville, six miles towards 

 the west. We corrected his mistake ; and as he declared that the road northwardly was so 

 rough as utterly to forbid night travelling, and that there was no kung-qua in that direction 

 nearer than Shah bay, we were reluctantly compelled to return to Farnigi; our reluctance 

 softened, however, by the very agreeable impression just made on us by the clean kung-qua of 

 that place, so inviting to our wearied and jaded frames. "We were, indeed, very glad to stop 

 and rest. 



We this evening adopted a system, which we followed afterwards, and found very useful 

 through the rest of this journey — namely, to cook enough provision in the evening to last for 

 twenty-four hours. In the morning, a few minutes' warming for breakfast had it ready for use; 

 and, at noon, we were ready for lunch whenever a green spot by a rivulet might offer itself. 

 Thus, on Thursday, having roused our party at the earliest dawn, we had our breakfast, and 

 had packed up and were ready for a start before the sun was up. 



Passing once more to the Port Melville shores, our road curved around them to the north- 

 ward, leading us for four or five miles over a fruitful and level country ; but it then entered 

 upon a region composed entirely of almost precipitous hills and ravines, where not a house or 

 cultivated spot was to be seen ; and this lasted till, at 10 o'clock, we reached Shah bay — this 

 morning's journey having been the most fatiguing in the whole route. We had to walk nearly 

 the whole distance, and our whole progress was by zigzags, up or down precipices, or by clam- 

 bering around rocky headlands, when the tide would admit. This broken region of hills, given 

 up to a stun led growth of trees, probably extends quite across the island, as does the mountain- 

 ous country further to the south. Shah bay, which opened upon us at last, is a pretty spot ; 

 and if it had depth enough at its entrance, would be one of the finest harbors in the world. 

 There is a village on an island at its mouth, and another, with a kung-qua, on its northern 

 side. 



The natives accommodated us with a boat, with which we visited the coal-bluffs (about which 

 I have made a separate report), and then coasted around the island at the entrance, in search of 

 further indications of coal. At the kung-qua we tried to hire a boat to transport us back to 

 Melville bay, our jaded bodies revolting against a return by the morning's road; but a storm 

 was beginning to send its warnings ahead, and the boatmen refused to venture out. So at 2, 

 p. M., we started on our return, and reached Farnigi after sunset, having travelled the last six 

 miles in heavy wind with rain. 



Friday, February 3. — Our distance from the ships forbade any unnecessary indulgence in 

 rest, and we were up at break of clay, and soon ready for a start; having, however, to leave our 

 guide and interpreter behind, as he had broken down in consequence of yesterday's fatigue and 

 exposure to the rain. Dr. Green administered to him, and left behind some refreshing aliment 

 for his use. A new guide had been provided, and we allowed him to choose his own way back. 

 From Farnigi he struck at once across the island, slantingly, and our road soon entered a gorge 



