68 EXPEDITION TO JAPAN. 



sand and gravel. Trap rock, of a coarse texture, appeared frequently on the steeper declivities 

 of the ridge; and a variety of the hibiscus, with a large flower of a dull orange hue, grew abun- 

 dantly in its crevices. The ground was in many places covered with a shower of white blos- 

 soms, which I afterwards found had dropped from a tree about thirty feet high, with a small 

 glossy leaf, thick foliage, and a stout smooth trunk of a greyish color. 



The forest became more dense as we reached the summit of the ridge. The thick luxuriant 

 crowns of the palms above our heads kept out every ray of the sun, and, combined with the 

 creepers swinging from trunk to trunk, made a shade so impervious, that it was impossible to 

 see more than fifteen or twenty yards in any direction. The multitude of large brown land- 

 crabs that scampered out of our path was truly amazing. The ground was alive with them in 

 the moist beds of watercourses, and the largest were fully six inches in breadth. 



The top of the ridge, an undulating tract furrowed with deep gullies, was about a mile and a 

 half in breadth, after which we came upon a descent at so sharp an angle that we were obliged 

 to swing ourselves down from tree to tree, to avoid tumbling into the bottom of the ravine. We 

 found ourselves in a wild dell, completely shut in by precipitous mountains, every foot of whose 

 sides, except the walls of naked rock on either hand, was covered with the richest foliage. A 

 stream of good water trickled over the rocky bottom. 



This dell opened to the southward into a narrow valley, which showed signs of being inhab- 

 ited. Crossing the stream, we came upon a patch of taro, the plants of which were the highest 

 and most luxuriant I ever saw. They were fully six feet high, and so drenched with the night's 

 dew that we were soon wet to the skin. Finding the forest beyond impracticable, on account 

 of its steepness and density, we followed the course of the stream, and soon reached an open 

 space covered with patches of sweet potato, taro, pumpkins, tobacco, sugar-cane, and the sida, 

 or Indian gooseberry, growing with unrivalled strength and luxuriance. Two huts, thatched 

 with palm-leaves, stood in the centre of the valley. Finding them both deserted, though ex- 

 hibiting evidences of having been occupied that morning, we fired our guns, the report of which 

 was answered by a hail. Presently a South-sea Islander, in a coarse cotton shirt and pantaloons, 

 and with one-half of his face tattooed a light-blue, made his appearance. He said he was a 

 native of Nuka-hiva, in the Marquesas, and named "Judge." He conducted us around the 

 corner of the mountain, where the valley' opened westward to the sea. The stream became a 

 creek deep enough for canoes, in one of which the Judge had just arrived, bringing a large 

 turtle with him. He appeared to be in good circumstances, since, in addition to his hut, his 

 plantation, and his turtles, he had four dogs, and as many pigs, of the same lean, black breed 

 as we found in Lew Chew. The banks of the stream were studded with a shrub about 12 feet 

 high, and covered with large blossoms of a chrome-yellow color, to which he gave the name 

 of "trao." 



" Judge" stated that the southern extremity of the island was three or four miles distant. 

 Tnere was no path, and he refused to accompany us as guide, but sent his boy for the owner of 

 the other hut, who knew the way over the hills. The latter was a tawny native of Otaheite, 

 and spoke very little English. He confessed that he knew the way, and was familiar with the 

 wild-boar haunts, but refused to go unless the Judge accompanied him. To this the latter 

 finally consented, and we set off again. 



The valley was bounded on the south by high mountains, which appeared to us impassable, 

 on account of the lines of mural rock, rising one above another to their very summits. The 

 main vall.ey, however, was not that into which we had first descended, but ran away to the east- 



