458 AGRICULTURAL ENGINEERING 



all filigree and turned work should be avoided, as it is not 

 durable. The cornice should be broad in order to protect 

 the walls. The use of a water table, with an edge under the 

 siding, insures a dry wall. Due provision should be made 

 above windows and doors for excluding water. Only the 

 best paint should be used, and perhaps there is none better 

 than pure white lead and linseed oil colored, when desired, 

 with the proper tints. 



Plastering. Back plastering is thought to be very bene- 

 ficial in cold, wet climates, although not generally used. 

 Back plastering may be either between the studding or on 

 the studding, with the second layer of finishing plaster on 

 lath nailed to furring strips. The latter is regarded as the 

 better method, as there is a tendency for cracks to form from 

 shrinkage in the former method. Metal corner beads should 

 be used on all exposed plastered corners. The lime for lime 

 plaster should be slacked at least 24 hours before adding hair. 

 It should be then allowed to stand stacked up at least ten days 

 before using. Lime mortar may be made by adding to each 

 barrel of lime 3 barrels of sand and 1 to V/% bushels of hair. 



Hard plaster should be mixed according to the directions 

 furnished by the manufacturers. These plasters give a 

 harder wall and better protection against moisture. 



The first coat of plaster is called the " scratch coat," the 

 second the " brown coat," and the third the "white" or 

 "skim" coat. Sometimes the third coat is omitted and the 

 walls are left rough or given a "float" finish, which is tinted 

 with a calcimine wash. 



The Woodwork. Dust lines should be eliminated as far 

 as possible, and for this reason plain finish is desirable. The 

 architraves or casings may be mitered or fitted with blocks at 

 the corners; the latter does not show the effect of shrinkage as 

 badly as the mitered corners. The block placed at the 



