193 



JOtfRlfAL OF HORTICULTURE AKD COTTAaS OARDENEE. 



[ March 7, 1865. 



heated by fire heat. If they chooso now to take plants out 

 of the gi'ound to pot, as we will bo obliged to do in a month 

 or so, a little bottom heat, whilst the tops ave kept cool, 

 will do them good, but the bottom heat should decline as 

 soon as the roots reach the sides of the pot. 



In the orchard-houses, in bad weather, syringed all tlie 

 houses with hot soap water — walls, woodwork, and trees 

 — and then painted the trees with a paint made of clay, 

 soot, lime, sort soap, and sulphm- ; and, when trees are fresh 

 fastened to the wall, wiU use a thin wash of Gishurst. We 

 may mention here that the wash of Gishurst for the Peaoh- 

 house was strong enough to injure a few young shoots. We 

 may also mention, in answer to many inquiries, that Gis- 

 hui-st is a capital thing used sparingly, and especially for 

 amateurs, as it enables them to have a good wash without 

 the trouble of mixmg ; and, if soaked and dissolved in 

 water some twelve hours before using, the liquid loses its 

 offensive smell for syringing, &c., and at the same time loses 

 nothing of its iu sect-repellent properties. We could also 

 speak favourably of Pavmentier's and other washes ; but, at 

 the same time, truth compels us to say that the best remedy 

 is to keep away insects by health, vigour, and unceasing 

 attention, and that, as to paints over the wood, clay alone, 

 or clay, sulphur, and soft soap, are just as efficacious iu 

 daubing up insects and their eggs as the finest compositions, 

 with learned names, sent out in box or bottle. A little 

 tobacco juice in the mixtui'e will do no harm ; but much, if 

 hot, may do so. A little lime, if there is anytliing like moss 

 or fungous growth, wiU also be useful ; and in extreme cases a 

 little nui vomica, cold. All such washes, in moderation, are 

 safe, if cold ; but if lime and sulphur, and nux vomica, are 

 boiled, &c., the mixture ceases to be mechanical, and, used 

 hot, may prevent all further need for using it ag.iin. Even 

 lime and sulphur, mixed into a paste, and used as paint, 

 are very different from lime and sulphur, heated or boiled 

 together. By the latter mode a most powerful acrid liquid 

 is produced; so that if a j)ound of lime and a pound of 

 sulphur are boiled in a gallon of water, one quartern or gill 

 of the clear liquid, when cool, would be strong enough to 

 syringe with twenty gallons of water. White hellebore is 

 also as destructive to many insects as snuff, and is much 

 cheaper. Sulphur, as we have often stated, is chiefly useful, 

 like lime, for destroying mildew or fungus, and for the 

 fumes which it throws oft' in a temperature of about 160" or 

 170", either with artificial or natural heat. 



To return from this digression. Before tying the trees in 

 the orchard-house, on the back wall, we have, after the 

 washing, the old colour, however, remaining firm, coloured 

 afresh the greater part of the wall, making fresh lime the 

 chief constituent. In such lean-to houses, with so much 

 light from the squares of glass between the sash-bar rafters, 

 which squares are 20 inches by 12 in depth, a white wall would 

 throw back too much heat for the well-being of the trees, 

 before the foliage was fully expanded. We therefore darken 

 the lime considerably, and this season we have added a 

 good proportion of sulphur. Our bricklayer, wlio generally 

 puts it on, is very particular in having the lime mixture 

 fresh made and smooth to work with the brush. When the 

 lime is slacked, it is worked with sufRoient water to pass, 

 by means of a brush, through a very fine sieve, all grit, if 

 any, being rejected. To about four gallons of this are 

 added three or four pounds of sulphur, previously made 

 into a soft paste, and about two quarts of blueblack in the 

 dry state, also mixed with enough water to make it into a 

 smooth liomogenous paste. These two articles are mixed 

 with the smooth lime-wash, and the whole is put on rather 

 thin, and looks black at first, but dries sufliciently white. 

 Hot water ia better for slacking the lime than cold, and the 

 colour stands much firmer on the wall when so slacked. 

 The sooner it is put on the better. If enough of mixture 

 is made to take two days to put on, or if the job is left, the 

 BBcond day's washing wilt not be so firm as that of the first, 

 and it will be apt to be a shade lighter in colour. 



We have hofl so many inquiries how to take off the offen- 

 sive white glare from limewash, that wo may be oxcusad for 

 the above minutia;. Such a toned wall neither distresses by 

 it6 brightneaa, nor saddena by its gloom ; and instead of re- 

 flecting the most of the rays of heat and light so as to make 

 eyerything uncomfortable near it in bright sunshine, it just 

 reflects enough, and also absoi'^a enough to warm the wall, 



so that it may radiate back a portion of the heat thus 

 absorbed during the coldness of the night. 



Fruit trees may still be planted, and after such a winter 

 will do little worse than those planted in the autumn. It 

 would be well to cover the ground with rough Utter, move 

 it aside on hot sunny days, and replace in the afternoon. In 

 all cases where present labour is an object, a mound of fresh 

 soil may be given to each tree. 



ORNAMENTAL DEPAETMENT. 



The'snows and heavy rains have prevented much out-door 

 work, except rolling the lawn and sweeping the walks of 

 leaves, twigs, &c., and examining bulbs of all sorts to see if 

 they were securely fastened in the ground. Also, the same 

 as to all fresh-planted shrubs and trees. All planting of this 

 kind should be finished as soon as possible. In all favour- 

 able weathei- proceeded with planting for timber and cover, 

 and this work now should also be finished without delay. 

 The frost and the snow have rendered the hares troublesome, 

 independently of tarred string, &o. Evergreens and other 

 shrubs may be planted until the buds for the fresh shoots 

 begin to swell. 



In hotbed oi* pit. Lily of the Valley, Deutzias, Roses, 

 Rhododendrons, and bulbs may now be more easily forced 

 into flower for the conservatory. A little bottom heat will 

 Cause them to come better after the pots are crammed with 

 roots. Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus, &o., in rooms, should 

 have aU the light possible. 



Out of doors we shall prune all the hardier Roses as soon 

 as the ground is drier, cutting Moss, Provence, Gallica, and 

 the less vigorous-growing Perpetuals pretty well in. All 

 strong growei's, of climbing habit, Banksian, and Briars, 

 do best when the small wood is thinned out, and the long 

 well-ripened shoots left nearly their full length. From every 

 bud a short shoot will come with clusters of flowers. It is 

 best to cut out these old shoots in autumn, and depend on 

 young, middle-sized long shoots again. When such Koses 

 are used against walls or fences, they may be spurred in for 

 years like a Vine, merely by thinning out the small spray 

 from each node of buds in the beginning of summer, and 

 cutting back to one bud in winter or early spring. Bour- 

 bons, Teas, and the more tender Chinas, should have the 

 pruning deferred until April. Teas laid in by the roots in a 

 sheltered shed, should now have the moisture at the roots 

 examined, and the covering at the heads reduced. If mild 

 weather continue the same lessening of protection should be 

 given to those left in the ground. Now is a good time for 

 grafting on stocks well-established in sraill pots, and then 

 placing them in a mild hotbed. The sooner Briar stocks are 

 pruned-in and planted the better for budding in summer. 



Rock work and collections of Alpines, and the tender her- 

 baceous plants, and even Wallflowers, &i., wiU want seeing 

 to and firming, after the frosts and boisterous winds. 

 Daisies and Heartsease may also be divided, using a little 

 fresh soil round them. The smallest root pieces of the latter 

 will do better than cuttings. Ranunculus may also want 

 firming, also bulbs in general, and mice should be kept from 

 them. Pinks may be planted, and plenty of air given to Car- 

 nations, Auriculas, Polyanthus, and the finer Primroses. 



Put in a good many cuttings of Verbenas, Pebunias, &c., 

 as we like young plants better than old ones. Went on 

 with Lobelias, &c., but the methods we have frequently 

 detailed. Those made at present we put into vessels of 

 some sort, but by-and-by we will dibble the cuttings at once 

 into sandy soU upon a slight hotbed, and take tlie glass off 

 them as soon as they are struck. Wo are so crammed at 

 present that we can scarcely turn ourselves, but in a few 

 weeks we will put a great many things out of doors under 

 temporary protection. 



Kept on potting Fuchsias, Geraniums, tying-out Pelar- 

 goniums, and giving larger pots to suooeasional Primulas, 

 Cinerarias, &c., and if we had a fair day would fill a shed 

 behind a greenhouse with large plants of Scarlet Geraniums, 

 that wo may prune a part of our last vinery, the Grapes in 

 which will soon be over. Wo have a groat many bedding 

 plants in it already, but we want the whole floor, ataga, 

 and shelves, to clear the Peach-house of all bedding stuff, or 

 the most of it. The trees are coming nicely in bloom, 

 average night temperature close on 50°, heat applied to raise 

 it to OS** and GO'' during the day, and if sun come, of which 

 we see little, we will with a little early air, allow it to rise to 



