April 11, 1865. } 



JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GAEDEN'ER. 



295 



VEGETABLES. 



Artichokea each 



Asparatras bundle 



Beans Brj:id \ sieve 



Kidney tOO 



Beet, Red.. ..^ doz. 



Broccoli bundle 



BmsselsSorouts \ sieve 



Cabbaee ', 7. «lo?:. 



Capslcuma 100 



Carrots bunch 



Cauliflower doz. 



Celerv bundle 



Cucumbers each 



Endive score 



Fennel bunch 



6arlic and Shallots, lb. 



Herbs bunch 



Horseradish ... bundle 



n. 



i. 



H. 



d 





s- 



d. 



9. 



d 



n 



4 too 



6 



Leebs bunch 



n 



3 to " 



6 



8 







u 







Lettuce doz. 



2 







4 



II 



















Mushrooms pottle 



I 



li 



a 



ti 



o 







s 







Maatd. & Cress, punnet 







2 



n 



II 



2 







s 







Onions bushel 



5 







7 























pickling quart 



(I 



6 







s 



3 







4 



(1 



Parslev J sieve 



3 



6 



i 





1 



6 



2 







Parsnips doz. 







9 



1 















U 







Peas quart 



10 







16 







n 



t 

 



11 

 6 



10 

 





2 

 



9 



4 



2 







o 



Radishes doz. bunches 







fy 







3 







Rhubirb bundle 







8 



1 



ti 



1 







4 







Savoys doz. 



3 







4 







'"> 



6 

 3 



3 

 



(1 









1 

 4 



« 







3 

 B 



11 







Spiuaoh „ sieve 



n 







8 











Tomatoes i sieve 





















3 



n 







Turnips bunch 



n 



5 



(1 



a 



- 



6 



4 







VeKetableMarrows doz. 







U 







u 



TO CORRESPONDENTS. 



*»* We request tliat no one vnH vrcite privately to the de- 

 partmental \n.'iters of the " Journal of Horticulture, 

 Cottage G-axdener, and Country Gentleman.'* By so 

 doing they ai-e subjected to unjustifiable trouble and 

 expense. AH communications should therefore be ad- 

 dressed soZeZj/ to The Editors of the Journal of HoiUcitl- 

 tiire, (^'c, 171, Fleet Street, London, E.C, 



N.B. — Many questions must remain unanswered until nest 

 week. 



CcccMBKR-OROwiKO (Amateur Gardener). — Tour best plan -will be to 

 obtain sufficient hot dung- to form a bed 1 foot wider than the fnme, and 

 about a yard in height. Shake the dun^ thorouehly out and mis it. and 

 beat dowTi with a fork ; it will also be all the better if turned over once or 

 twice to allow the rank steam to escaoe. It wi 1 then afford a milder and 

 more lastinjr heat, besiiles not g-ene'atiofr so rank a steam as when made up 

 of fresh dune:. The bed having been made, place the frame uonn it, and put 

 on the lis-h'-s. In about a week tbe heat will have risen iuthebsd; then, 

 taking^ off the lights, level the surface of the bed. and if the heat is not too 

 violent (this you may ascertain by thrusting a trial stick into the bed, and if 

 you can hold the end ti^flitly in the hand without a Fpnsatinn of burning- 

 the heat is not too creat', put under the centre of each li^ht half a ban-ow- 

 fal of loax.T soil— that from rotted turves a year old is the best— in the form 

 of a cone with a flattened too. An irch or so of soil placed over the surfice 

 will, to a great extent, keep down the rank steam. This done put on the 

 lights, and in a f-^w davs you mav plant in the htlls. putting one plant under 

 the centre of each light, ov two under each if the lights are 6 or 7 feet long, 

 and of corr*>spondinff width. Water after planting-, and regularly after- 

 wards according to the condition of the soil. Always use water which has 

 been exposed to the air, and of the same temperature as the air of the frame. 

 Admit air on all favourable opportunities, opening early and closing eirly. 

 The temperature bv night may be from 60" to 65°, giving air at 75°, and 

 closing- at SO*'. When the roots come through the sides of the hills place 

 more soil over them, and about three weeks after planting' cover tbe bed 

 with soil sufficient to make a tbictness of 9 inches all over the surface. 

 Stop the shoots by pinching-out their points one joint above the fruit, or if 

 none show stop them after they have grown a foot in length, presuming 

 them to have been previously stopped at the second leaf. Do not allow 

 the shoots to become too crowded, but thin them out, always taking out the 

 weak and those that have borne fruit. Water through a rose over the sur- 

 face on bright days at -i p.m. This will be required about twice a-week, or 

 in very bright weather every other day, then shut up the frame. 



Books (F. J/.).— The "Cottage Gardeners' Dictiocary" may he had at 

 our office for 5s., or free by p^st for 5s. Si. The other work, with supple- 

 ment, costs £1 l\s. 6d. Apply to the curator of the gardens. (F. B).— 

 Henslow's "Rudiments of Botany" is o very good work, 



CnoEozEMA C3RD\TA. OvER-viGOROcs (IF. A. 0.) — Yorr plant is esces- 

 fiively vigorous, a condition which the leaf oiould and planting in a border 

 would have a tendency to induce. Si long as the plant- continues to grow 

 so vigorously it will not bloom, but if you confine the roots to a part of the 

 border, and keep the soil rather nry in winter, it will bloom all the finer in 

 consequence of beinir vigorous. It should have a light airy situation. It 

 will not bloom in a shady border. 



Ferxs in Case Moui.dtxg {R. and B.). — The cau?e of the fronds moulding 

 is the atmosphere being too confined. They should have a little air, and 

 the moisture should be wiped off the glass once a-day in the morninjr, or 

 air may be given to dry it up. The case should be opened a little— half an 

 inch or so at top— so as to allow of a change of atmosphere. In other 

 respects we think vour arrangements and management good. Of the Feras 

 inyour list, the Gymnogramraas, Cheilanthes, and Xotboehltenas are not 

 suitable. They require just the reverse of a close confined atmosphere, 

 though they flourish in one that is moist. The others ought to do well. 



FRAXTE OS VlNERT-EORDER—STUtKINGMKS. Pollock GERANICll(J/r5. IT.) 



— We would plant the Vin^s inside, but, as you correctly show, make sure 

 that your inside border is rather the highest. The frame or pit will be an 

 advantage every way, provided you keep plants in it that require little water 

 in winter, and are able, i!" not to remove the glass, to remove the plants in 

 snminer, in order that the sun may shine upon the soil. These two matters 

 kept in view, your pit or frame will answer admirably. There is no secret 

 about sttiking Mrs. Pollock Geranium ; if you waut a good plant quickly 

 from a cutting you mu?t use a good-sized cutting. Clever gardeners may 

 cut up a young shoot into as many pieces ms there are leaves and make a 

 plant of each, just a* is frequently done with Verbenas, making two plants 

 from every joint; but were you to try the plan and could not give the 

 requisite attention, most Likely yon would lose them all. Striking such 

 things as Mrs. Pollock from leaves without a piece of the stem with the leaf, 

 "we consider sending amateurs on a wrong scent. 



Btno's-NEST Fern Fronds DECAvrNG— Pruning Tpomii:a Learii {Sernp^. 

 —The probable cause of the fronds not developing is the clos" at;ignant air 

 of yoar house, and allowing water to stand or drip on them. It is impatient 

 of water on the fronds, and will not do in an exces-^ively moist house. Ceaae 

 syringing and repot the plant, providing good drainage ;ind using the com- 

 post roui^h. Maintain a moist atmosphere by sprinkling the floors, &c. We 

 think the syringing the leaves twice a-day is the ciuse. Ipomoca Leani may- 

 be pruued close in in the autumn, which is the usual practice, it being 

 necessary to prune then or before growth recommences, in order to have 

 strong bines, and consequently large flowers 



Cucumber Leaves Blotched {A Comtnnf. Readet).— The Cucumber 

 leaves are spotted and blotchei trom st-am or heated vapour. Most likely 

 there had been a large amount of vapour in the house, which hid become 

 condensed on the leaves, and the sun had cdUght chem nexf day before air 

 was given to let off the hot vapour and dry the leaves. The rest of the 

 young foliage will most likely come all right if the necessary precautions he 

 attended to. 



Plaktixg ITonktsl'cklf.s fJ/. .4.).— The best flowering and most hardy of 

 the Honeysuckles is tiie Woodbine iCaprifolium peric'ymGnu:r-). C. Brownii 

 an I Youneii, varieties of the Scarlet Trumpet Honeysuckle, are fine and 

 free blooming; and so are 0. odoratlssimum. Shephemii, and flexuosum. 

 They are best pLauted in autumn or early spring, but they may be removed 

 now if taken no wita a coad ball and well watered at plantini;, an.l during 

 dry weather until established. 



PaoPAGATrsG Double Pr.isions (Idem). — These are propagated by 

 taking off the offsets with a heel, or dividing tbe plants with a sharp knife, 

 tri liming off the lowest leaves, and inserting in a compost o^ sandy peat 

 twn-thirds, and turfy loam and silver sand in equal parts one-third. Let 

 the base of the cutting or rootless divisions rest on anl be surrounded with 

 .silver sand. They are best inserted singly in small pots. Tne soil shoald 

 be keot constantly moist, but not very wet, otherwise they will damp off; 

 give slight shade and a moist atmosphere, bn': do not syringe overhead, and 

 plunge the pots in a bottom hear of 75*. Tbe compost we grow them in 

 after the plints become established is equal parts peat, leif mould, and loam 

 from rotted tirves or turfy loam, with a free admixture of silver sand, 

 affording free drainage. 



CuTTiNG-iN Portugal Laurels — Planting Ybws, and other Ever- 

 greens (if. 5.).— Our reraark>i about cutting-in variegated Holly apply to 

 all evergreen shrubs, but especially to Hollies, Vew*. and Laurel'^. You may 

 cut the Portugal Laurel in from the middle of thi^ to the first or second 

 week in next month. If the growths are onlv irregular you may, by 

 shoi tening those which are irregular, and retaining the smaller shoots, leave 

 the tree quite feathery; but if very irrejulir s" ort'n all, cutting the 

 strongest shoots closer in than those which are weak, stiU leaving all much 

 of the san^e length in order to secure a well-shapan tree. It is not too late 

 to plant Yews, Laurels, and evergreens, if they be removed with a certain 

 amount of soil attached to the roots. We have less deaths l>y transplanting 

 at this season than iu September and October. 



Flower-gardes Plak (C J., Crickteicood). —For the style you propose 

 we think your arrangement will do very well. Scarlet and purple Verbenas 

 would look well in 4. 



McjsHRooii Spawk Failing (J. F.). — We have examined carefully the 

 pieces of spawn sent. No. 1 we should think h.is perished fron damp. It 

 seemed a mass of worms and larvca of different insects. Whether such a 

 state of things would proceed from do-ing the horse we cannot siy. No. 2 

 seems perished, most likely from a little over-heat, but of' that you are the 

 best judge. A few hours extra heat will do it. No. 3 is nearly pone, but 

 there are still some good spore threads, and if that was inserted on the 

 3r.i of February we would not yet despair. No. 4 is very fair spawn— looks 

 as if the bed was damp enough, but still, though the threads are a little too 

 far gone in some places, the spawn in such a state ought to produce heavily. 

 Certainly we would trust to such spawn, hut if at ail damp, or the bed damp, 

 wrap it in dry litter. If the niece sent has been taken from the bed we 

 would say let the bed alone. No. 5 is very fair— not first-rate, nor so good 

 as No. 4. but it is such as we would use with confidence, using it freely — 

 that is. more of it. We have no doubt the bed in the shed will do well ; if 

 doubtful you had better have a little fresh spawn. We should use 4 and 5. 



Htacisth Ccltuee iMoiiticoln) — You can obrain Mr. William Paul's 

 Lecture on the Hyacinth direct from him. What be has so plainly and 

 systematically stated in his admirable lecture on the propagation and general 

 cultivation of the Hyacinth, both in Holland and in this country, may be 

 fully rc-liei on, and we will not, therefore, refer you to any other work. 

 As we think you will gain all the informition you require from it^ our 

 answers to your queries will be short. 1st, Yes; the si^^e of the bells may 

 be increa-^ed by high cultivation during the year in which the bloom is pro- 

 duc'd. Tbe spike may also be increased in size and Wngth ; but the spike 

 itself, and the number of florets or bells are formed in the bulb during the 

 growth of the pceviQus season. If the bulb were subjected to high cultiva- 

 tion, and received a greater amount of atteution. n> doubt sufficient matter 

 would be stored up Ih it to enable it to produce three or more spikes of 

 bloom instead of one; but of cmrse the growers of bulbs of this description 

 would be obliged to charge more for them, as such would require more 

 room to grow in, and a greiter amount of manure, &c. 2nd and 3rd, See 

 Mr. Paul's Lecture on the Hyacinth, pages 10 and 11. 4th, The only 

 reason we have for thinking that Hyacinths cannot be cultiva'ed so well in 

 this country as they are in Holland, is the same as that quoted by IMr. Paul, 

 page 10— '-In the month of June, at which time tbe bulbs are ripening, the 

 earth-heat appears to me greater than in any soil of which I have had 

 experience iu England," 



PiErrBBisG Agxpasthus vmbkllatus fC. Jf. Zlnjor). — It is too late to 

 retub your plant< now ; the proper time for doing it is as soon as they have 

 done floweiiog. You had better supply them, during tbe coming summer, 

 with plenty of manure water; they cannot bo drenched too much with water 

 during their season of growtn. .\% they are plants that wil; not bloom weU 

 unless their pots are very full of roois, they should not be repotted very 

 often. The plants should be well drenched with water several times before 

 they are potted, so thit the bills may be thoroLighly so »ked through. The 

 roors around the outside of the balls should be disentancled before they are 

 put into their new tubs, or it will be a long time before the roots will work 

 into the fresh soil. Care should also be taken to press the new soil firmly 

 around the ball. If this is not done the water will pass through the new 

 soil, le.iving the old ball quite dry. The shift yon propose giving them will 

 last them a great number of years. 



