July 18, 1878. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER, 
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plants, hybernating to re-appear in the spring. One of the 
Jargest of our Noctuinz, and one of very dull tint, is called 
the Old Lady (Nania maura). The caterpillar, which is neces- 
sarily of good size, is reported to feed on fruit trees, also on 
the Strawberry, but it is seldom seen. The moth is partial to 
outhouses, where, large as it is, it sometimes falls a prey to 
spiders. The last species that we can specify is the Mouse 
(Amphipyra Tragopogonis), so styled from its mode of shuf- 
fling along when alarmed, the caterpillars of which occasionally 
feed on Larkspurs, more generally upon the Whitethorn— 
J.BR.S. C, 
WORK FOR THE WEEK. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
FLOWER beds require frequent looking over for the removal of 
decayed leaves and flowers, and for pinching-in the growths so as 
to keep the marginal and divisional lines of the various patterns 
clear and distinct. Seed pods of Pelargoniums, Verbenas, Violas, 
and all plants employed for bedding should be removed immediately 
the petals fall, as the production of seed tends to weaken the plant 
and impedes its continuous flowering. Verbenas and Violas should 
not only have the seed vessels removed frequently, but have the 
branches moderately thinned and pinched back so as to induce 
young growth, thereby securing continuity of flowering. Calceo- 
larias, Violas, Verbenas, and all plants delighting in moisture 
should have water abundantly in dry weather, avoiding giving it 
overhead, as it impairs the beauty of the flowers, especially those 
of Calceolarias, which from their form fill with water and fall off. 
Carpet-bedding plants of free growth must be kept pinched, so 
that the lines forming the various designs be kept clear and dis- 
tinct, as these beds owe much of their effect to their trimness. 
Dahlias, Hollyhocks, and all plants having a large leaf-surface 
should be timely staked and have their growths well secured, so 
as to prevent them from being broken or damaged by winds. 
Similar remarks apply to subtropical plants, which with Dahlias, 
Hollyhocks, &c., should have liberal supplies of liquid manure, 
especially in dry weather. Asters, Phlox Drummondi, and other 
annuals should also receive copious supplies of liquid manure, and 
if extra large flowers are wanted the flower buds must be freely 
thinned. Gladioluses should have copious waterings in dry 
weather, and have a mulch over the surface of the soil of short 
manure, which will not only have an invigorating tendency, but 
will keep the soil cool and moist, which is of no little consequence 
in light open soils ; in heavy soils the mulching keeps the surface 
from cracking. 
Roses will be greatly benefited by free application of liquid 
manure and thorough mulching, which will help them to push 
fresh growth and keep up a good successional bloom. Continue 
removing the faded flowers, and check any straggling rampant 
shoots by cutting back, so as to retain order and regularity in the 
form of the heads, and to equalise the sap, preventing undue 
vigour in one part and weakness in another. Push on the budding 
whilst the stocks are in good condition, and continne inserting 
cuttings under handlights on a north border, or in a gentle 
hotbed, 
Seeds may yet be sown of biennials and perennials, paying atten- 
tion to pricking off plants produced by a former sowing as they 
kecome large enough to handle, for they do not have a chance to 
become stout and well furnished when allowed to remain thickly 
together in the seed beds. 
In “dressed” grounds a variety of trees and shrubs enter into 
the arrangement, which without free use of the knife are not in 
keeping with the trimness that pervades the surroundings. To 
keep such evergreens as common and Portugal Laurel, «c., in 
anything like presentable form severe spring pruning is not more 
important than a judicious removal at this season of irregularities 
of growth, so as to afford the desired shape of the specimens or 
outline of the groups of which they form part, but any stiffness, 
such as that likely to result from clipping with the shears (which 
greatly disfigures the leaves by severing them), should be avoided. 
There can be no doubt that the present is much the most pre- 
ferable time of year to operate upon choice trees and shrubs 
needing assistance in the formation of symmetrical heads by the 
shortening back of straggling branches or removing altogether 
those that cross each other, for at this season the wounds caused 
by cutting off the branches heal much more quickly than at any 
other period of the year. Many fanciers of fine trees, notably coni- 
ferous trees, are averse to the knife or saw being employed upon 
them, alleging that trees left to assume their own natural forms 
are preferable to those receiving aid from man, to which we cordi- 
ally subscribe, except always when two leaders start away and 
contend for chief place it is of importance that one of them be 
removed, also that irregularities of growth be checked, so as to aid 
Nature to produce the finest specimens of her works. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Pines.—Plants started early in the year for fruiting will now in 
the case of early sorts have ripened-off the fruit, and the later 
kinds will be so advanced in ripeness as to admit of their being 
removed to a vinery or other house rather cool and dry, to finish 
off, which will have the advantage of prolonging the season and 
admit of the successional plants being afforded more room, it 
being impossible to have fine fruit unless the plants have plenty 
of room and light to induce sturdy habit. Let there be no delay 
in getting in the suckers from the early-fruited plants, potting 
them in fibrous loam rammed firmly into the pots and around 
the base of the suckers, watering at once, having in readiness a bed 
of fermenting materials at a temperature of about 90° at the base 
of the pots to plunge themin. They root best in a close moist pit. 
In plunging bring the material over the surface of the pots so as 
to prevent the soil becoming dry near the top; the soil will then 
have sufficient moisture until the suckers have rooted, they doing 
so more quickly if shaded from bright sun and ventilated a little 
at 85°. Care must be had in not subjecting the suckers to too 
strong bottom heat. Beds that had a supply of fresh material in 
spring will not require any now. They may, however, with ad- 
vantage be turned over to a depth of 20 to 24 inches, but those 
that had not a renewal of the material in spring should have an 
addition of about a foot of new tan mixed with the old to a depth 
of 18 inches, avoiding if possible the making of new beds, but if 
it be necessary 24 inches in depth of new tan wlll afford all the 
heat necessary for the suckers. 
Figs.—Those ripening-off the fruit must have a circulation con- 
stantly of dry warm air to produce it in the highest perfection, 
which can be secured at this time of year without resorting to 
artificial heat except in dull cold weather. The second crop will 
be advanced in size; and if the fruit be too thick it must be 
thinned if not already done, remembering that this crop must not 
tax the energies of the trees too severely if the trees are expected 
to afford early fruit next season. Attend to stopping and tying- 
in the shoots, watering the borders copiously, especially those of 
limited area, and syringing forcibly twice a day to keep red spider 
under. Do not neglect to syringe trees in pots intended for early 
forcing at least once a day, in hot weather twice, affording liquid 
manure at the roots, and pinching to induce fruitfulness in young 
plants. Stopping must be regulated by the vigour of the plants 
and kind. Vigorous growers will need to be more closely pinched 
than those of moderate growth. Such kinds as Early Violet, 
Black Ischia, Bordeaux, Negro Largo, White Ischia, Cuil de 
Perdrix, and White Marseilles are of good habit and do not 
require such close stopping as Angelique, Brown Turkey, and 
others of more vigorous growth. It is important that the trees 
have plenty of light, are not crowded, and are well ventilated to 
solidify the growth as it is made. 
Melons—Plant without further delay in the Melon house for 
producing fruit in October, and sow seed at once to raise plants 
to ripen a crop of fruit in November. In Melon houses artificial 
heat may now be dispensed with, except when dull cold weather 
prevails when the fruit is setting or ripening. Syringe growing 
plants freely in the afternoon at about 4 P.M. or earlier, allowing 
the temperature to rise, but not above 85° to 90° after closing. 
Afford a plentiful supply of water at the roots, when shading of 
the foliage will seldom be needed. The latest plants in pits and 
frames will now be setting or far advanced to setting their fruit, 
it being important that the fruit be set at the close of this or early 
part of next month to allow time for its swelling and ripening. 
Give a good watering before the flowers open, line the sides of the 
beds with some hot dung or short grass, and leave about three- 
quarters of an inch of air on constantly at the back of the lights 
until the fruit is set and commences swelling, then keep the 
growths well stopped and maintain a warm moist temperature by 
early closing with sun heat, and sprinkling the foliage, and water 
ing in bright weather twice a week. 
Cucumbers.—Pot off the plants for autumn fruiting, pinching 
out the growing point beyond the second rough leaf, and complete 
the preparation of the dung for affording bottom heat, presuming 
fermenting material to be employed, and have the soil in readiness 
for planting in due time. The house must havea thorough cleans- 
ing after the old plants and soil have been removed. Although 
fire heat is at this time of year in bright weather unnecessary, 
yet in a prolonged period of damp dull weather the nights are 
cold, and the low temperature induces yellow fruits, canker at the 
collar of the plants, and mildew on the foliage. In such weather 
employ gentle fire heat by night, and day also if cold, Against 
mildew flowers of sulphur dusted freely about the foliage is an 
infallible remedy, and against canker there is nothing better than 
tubbing the infested parts until dry with freshly slaked lime. 
Upon a return to bright weather after a dull period shade from 
bright sun to prevent flagging, which if allowed wastes the 
energies of the plants, resulting in ill-shapen stunted fruits, and 
offers a strong inducement to red spider. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Orchids.—Many of the Masdeyallias and Odontoglossums will 
now require a shift, especially those that are growing strongly 
and have filled the pots with roots. Keep the temperature in the 
Odontoglossum house cool by sprinkling plenty of water about 
the floors, and ventilate freely. The bottom ventilators should be 
left open all night, using the syringe freely. This is a good time 
to pot Cattleya Mossie and Lelia purpurata, as these will have 
