July 4, 1878. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
15 
one leaf; and if this results in too much foliage, so that the leaves 
upon the primary shoots are crowded or shaded by them, thinning 
of the laterals must be resorted to, removing a little at a time. 
The plants should be gone over at least once, and in the case 
of very vigorous plants twice a week, for the removal of super- 
fluous growths, the principal leaves being fully exposed to light 
and air. Until the fruit commences netting it should have every 
encouragement in swelling by maintaining a good moisture at 
the roots and sprinklings at closing time overhead. Close the 
house or frame at 80°, and if the temperature rise to 85° or 90° 
all the better, but after the fruit commences netting less atmo- 
spheric moisture should be given, a light sprinkling at closing 
time, maintaining thorough moisture at the roots until the fruit 
shows indications of ripening, when the sprinkling overhead 
should be discontinued and air freely admitted. If the old shoots 
are cut away the young ones will soon show fruit and set freely. 
If the plants do not show indications of a free growth, are in- 
fested with red spider, or decayed at the collar, it is better to 
root them out and make a fresh start. Remove the old soil 
entirely, and, where bottom heat is obtained from fermenting 
material only, a little fresh hot dung worked in will sufficiently 
revive the bottom heat for this time of year. Observe thorough 
cleanliness in houses, as the after-success depends upon the plants 
having a good start. Plant on hillocks rammed well down, and 
‘maintain a moist growing atmosphere. Pot off any plants re- 
quiring it and keep them sturdy. Impregnate the blossoms daily 
until the requisite number of fruit is set, then remove all the 
flowers, and earth-up the plants. Look well after canker at 
the collar of the plants, as it spreads rapidly ; it is overcome by 
rubbing the infected parts with quicklime. Shade only to prevent 
flagging. Take care to cut the fruits with a considerable portion 
of stem when removing them before quite ripe in order to prolong 
the season of supply. 
Cucumbers.—This is a good time to sow for raising plants for 
early autumn fruiting, good plants for planting out being had in 
about a month. Liberal attention and treatment must be given 
to plants in full bearing, thinning-out the exhausted growths and 
foliage, laying-in young bearing wood and earthing-up the plants 
at short intervals. Apply liquid manure copiously, and maintain 
an abundance of atmospheric moisture, particularly in hot weather. 
Be careful not to overcrop young plants; do not allow the fruit 
to hang too long upon the Vines. Syringe well at closing time, 
about 4 P.M. No fire heat will now be necessary, but when 
making new beds a gentle bottom heat is essential to a good start. 
Dust the plants with sulphur about once a week, and if aphis 
appear fumigate gently. If worms are troublesome water with 
weak lime water. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Stove—Jasminum Sambac flore-pleno has pure white flowers 
about the size of a Daisy, which are very fragrant and most useful 
for cutting. It is easily grown from cuttings taken off with a 
heel inserted in half loam and sand and placed in bottom heat. 
When rooted pot into 3-inch pots and continue them in bottom 
heat until well established, pinching out the points of the shoots to 
induce them to break near the base of the plant ; train horizontally 
so as to induce well-furnished plants, shift into larger pots, and 
ultimately train to a trellis for flowering. Turfy loam with a fourth 
of well-decayed manure or leaf soil and a free admixture of sand 
will grow it well. Keep the plants well syringed, as they are subject 
tored spider. Alchmea discolor and. miniata are useful for summer 
and autumn decoration, and should be grown in quantity—single 
crowns in 7-inch pots. Turfy loam or peat will grow them, with 
a free admixture of sand anda few nodules of charcoal, and crocks 
broken rather small to keep the soil open and sweet, good drainage 
being provided, as free watering is required, the plants being 
epiphytal in their native habitats. They should be grown near 
the light upon a shelf or where they can have plenty of light, 
and then they throw up their flowers strongly, remaining in good 
condition for six weeks. Tillandsia Lindeni is very beautiful, 
having narrow, channelled, gracefully curved leaves, which are 
Jonger than most of the genus. Its blue flowers produced in 
succession from its lengthened scapes have a grand effect. It is 
of easy culture, succeeding under ordinary stove treatment. The 
earliest-flowered Ixoras will push strongly if now placed in brisk 
heat and humid atmosphere, and will flower again in autumn, 
being then very useful for cutting ; afford weak liquid manure 
once a week if the pots are full of roots. I. aurantiaca and I. coc- 
cinea are two of the best for this purpose. The second batch of 
Euphorbia and Poinsettia cuttings will by this time be rooted 
and should be moved into larger pots, as from their free-rooting 
nature they become stunted in growth if the roots are confined 
in small pots whilst the plants are young. Cuttings of most 
hardwooded plants will now be ina half-ripened state and will root 
freely, especially if they have the advantage of bottom heat and 
are kept close. They should be inserted singly in small pots, as 
they may be transferred to larger without receiving any check, 
growing them on through the winter, they then being consider- 
ably advanced. Plants that may be so increased now are Com- 
bretum purpureum, Clerodendrons Balfourianum, splendens, and 
others of the climbing section, as well as the shrubby, such as 
fallax, fragrans, and Keempferi, likewise Bougainvilleas, Dipla- 
denias, Alschynanthuses, Gardenias, Hexacentris mysorensis, 
Ixoras, Medinillas, Stephanotis, Rondeletias, Tabernzeemontanas, 
Thunbergias, and Meyenias. Choice varieties of Gloxinias should 
be increased by leaf-cuttings ; they strike much more surely now 
than earlier in the season, when the leaves are liable to damp off. 
They should be shaded from bright sun and kept rather close. 
Young plants of Stephanotis floribunda being forwarded for 
next year’s flowering should have the shoots trained near the 
glass in all the light possible with free ventilation, so as to induce 
firm growth. Young plants of Clerodendron Balfourianum should 
be continued in heat after flowering so as to encourage growth, 
training the shoots near the glass ; if they require more pot room 
shift at once into larger pots. Turfy yellow loam with a fourth 
of well-decayed manure and a free admixture of sand is a suitable 
compost. See that Palms and Draczenas do not suffer from attacks 
of red spider and by want of water at the roots. Syringing the 
under side of the leaves will free them of red spider. Gesneras 
Cooperi, Donckelaari, and others of that type may be increased 
from cuttings, the flower stems being cut down to a couple of 
inches above the bulb, Young growths will proceed from the 
crown, and these when 2 inches in length should be inserted 
singly in small pots in equal parts of sand and loam, having 
water only to keep from flagging. After rooting encourage all 
the aowih possible. 
Insects at this time of year increase rapidly. Constant atten- 
tion must be paid to fumigation against thrips and aphis, syringing 
against mealy bug and red spider, and sponging for the clearance of 
scale, otherwise the plants will soon become seriously disfigured 
and many permanently injured. Dull weather should be chosen 
for this, for it is then much more comfortably done than when 
the days are bright and sunny. To keep men at such work in 
hot stoves in bright hot weather is indicative of bad management 
and thoughtlessness. Advantage should be taken of wet days 
to push forward the cleaning of plants, it being false economy 
to keep men working in the rain when there is pressing work on 
hand under glass. 
TO CORRESPONDENTS. 
*,* All correspondence should be directed either to “ The Editors,” 
or to “The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Mr. Johnson or 
Dr. Hogg often remain unopened unavoidably. We request 
that no one will write privately to any of our correspondents, as 
doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, 
and should never send more than two or three questions at 
once. All articles intended for insertion should be written on 
one side of the paper only. We cannot reply to questions 
through the post. 
Books (W. 7. Ward).—On the methods of collecting and preserving 
insects, Green's “Insect Hunter’s Companion,’ 1s. 6d. (Van Voorst), may be 
recommended. Mr. Merrin’s “ Lepidopterist’s Calendar,” 3s. 6d. (Newman), 
contains much valuable information about the times of appearance of 
butterflies and moths. As first books on these interesting insects, “ British 
Butterflies,” 1s.,and “Common British Moths,” 1s. (Routledge), are good. 
If a general glance at the whole class be desired, the Rey. W. Haughton’s 
“ Sketches of British Insects,” 3s. 6d. (Groombridge), is a useful introduction, 
or Figuier’s “ Insect World,” 5s. 6d. (Cassell). 
GUANO WATER (W.S.).—A quarter of an ounce of guano to each gallon 
of water for potted plants, and half an ounce to each gallon for plants in 
beds. 
ALYSSUM WIERZBICKII SEEDS (H.S.).—We cannot aid you. Write to 
Messrs. Rollisson, you will have a polite reply. 
STRAWBERRY (H. D.).—The Strawberry is a fruit. 
NEIGHBOUR’S TREES (Z. W. J/.).—Unless we saw the place, and had full 
knowledge of the tenancy, its priority, &c., we could not venture to give an 
opinion. 
PEACH LEAVES DISEASED (Y. €.S.).—They are attacked by spot. De- 
ficient root-action is the cause. Apply copiously tepid very weak manure 
water. 
FUNGUS ON ROSES (Jfs. A. G.).—See our answer on page 471 of the 
previous volume. 
GRAPES DISEASED (W. Mf. and K. Mf.).—They are very severely spotted, 
The roots are inactive, and require tepid liquid manure. We cannot name 
plants from such fragments as “ W. Jf.” enclosed. 
ANTS ON MUSHROOM BED (Clifford) —We know of no mode of excluding 
them unless you can sprinkle Scotch snuff over the surface. 
VINE LEAVES DISEASED (Z. White)—Water the Vines with very weak 
liquid manure, and give more shade and better ventilation. 
GRAPE STALKS DECAYED (W. J. C.)—They are shanked, and it is caused 
by defective root-action. Apply liquid manure to the roots. 
SAVING SEED OF PRIMULA SINENSIS (@. 7. H.).—Select sturdy plants 
in somewhat small pots, with a truss of fine flowers fully developed, and 
place them on a shelf near the glass, where they have plenty of light and 
air. In watering take care not to wet the blossom, and in due course you 
will obtain a few seed pods from each plant, affording a little seed, so little 
that in order to obtain a large supply some dozens of plants must be re- 
seryed for the purpose. It is very advantageous to fertilise the flowers, 
using a camel's-hair brush. 
GRAPES NOT COLOURING (W. H. H.).—Your Grapes are good, and would 
have coloured well if the Vines had not been overcropped. The plants will 
