7A 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
July 25, 1878. 
from Japan, two from the Cape of Good Hope, thirty-three 
from Siberia, two from Tartary, one from Egypt, two from 
Morocco, one from Aleppo, one from Barbary, and the remain- 
ing few chiefly from Asia. At this time private enterprise 
became enlisted in the cause, and this fact, together with the 
formation of public gardens, the curators of which were ever 
on the look-out for new specimens, deprives the subject of 
some of its interest. By these means, principally, ninety-four 
trees and shrubs were introduced from 1801 to 1810 inclusive ; 
from 1811 to 1820, 374; and from 1821 to 1830, 318. To the 
intelligence and zeal of our nurserymen we owe very much, 
and their thorough knowledge of the best treatment of trees is 
probably not to be surpassed by the arborists of any country, | 
But from the date of the general establishment of such businesses, 
and of botanic gardens, it becomes a matter of extreme diffi- 
culty to ascertain when any particular tree was introduced, nor 
is it a matter on which much interest would be felt ; but it is 
different when we deal with the records of centuries ago, when 
Bishop Compton laboured in his nurseries at Fulham, when 
Petticoat Lane was perfumed every spring with Hawthorn 
blossom, and you might have gathered Violets where you can 
now only find old clothes; or when Gerard studied the treat- 
ment of foreign trees in his Holborn garden, and the Czar Peter 
rode in a wheelbarrow through Evelyn’s Holly hedge.——( Journal 
of Forestry.) 
WORK FOR THE WEEK. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Sow Lettuces for autumn and early winter use and to lift for 
protecting in frames. The best for this sowing are Neapolitan 
and All the Year Round Cabbage sorts ; Hicks’ Hardy White and 
Bath or Brown Sugarloaf Cos varieties. They should be sown in 
firm ground to induce firm close growth, as, if the autumn be wet, 
they form flabby leaves without much heart when sown in or 
transplanted to open rich soil. Plant without delay the Michael- 
mas crop of Cauliflowers. If any Celery for late spring use remain 
to be planted get it out at once; earth-up the early crops as they 
advance and make sure that there is sufficient moisture at the 
‘coots, as after earthing it is difficult to afford water to benefit 
them. A sowing of Chervil made now will stand for late use 
without running, and Corn Salad will afford a supply for the 
autumn and best part of the winter. Continue to plant with 
Broccoli, Savoy, Borecole, &c., all-vacant ground as it is cleared 
of Peas, Potatoes, &c. Discarded Strawberry plantations may be 
at once planted with Dwarf Savoys and Coleworts at 12 to 15 
inches distance apart. In light soils no digging will be necessary, 
the plants growing more sturdy and forming better hearts in firm 
than in loose soil. Sow Endive for transplanting to the foot of 
walls in September. Do not neglect to sow a moderate breadth 
of Spinach and Radishes every fortnight, as these crops come in 
quickly and soon become past use. To have tender sweet Radishes 
in hot weather water must be given frequently and copiously. 
‘The earlier kinds of autumn-sown Onions, Garlic, and Shallots 
should be taken up as they cease growth, spreading the bulbs 
over the ground for a few days so that they may be well dried 
before takingthemin. The Garlic and Shallots should be bunched 
and suspended in a cool dry shed. Potatoes are lifting well and 
for the most part in good condition, though we hear of a few cases 
of disease, which happily are not numerous and very limited in 
extent. Early kinds in some localities are sufficiently ripe to take 
up and store. This should be done so soon as the tubers are full- 
sized ana the skins set so as not to be displaced by rubbing, and 
if for use should be kept from light in a cool rather dry place; 
but if for seed place thinly on shelves in a well-ventilated dry 
shed. In case of disease infesting the haulm take up the crop at 
once before it attacks the tubers. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Apricots are approaching ripening, and althongh not a heavy 
crop the fruit is fine. When the fruit commences ripening atten- 
tion must be given to prevent its being injured by ants, which 
take a fancy to the frst ripe portion, and commit such hayoc as to 
cause its speedy decay. Guano strewed in their runs and over 
their nests will cause them to migrate, but the best remedy is to 
put honey and water to the depth of an inch in jars placed at the 
foot of the wall when the fruit commences ripening, and the ants 
will drown themselyes. Woodlice also are troublesome. They 
are trapped readily in small pots containing portions of boiled 
potato wrapped loosely in a little hay and placed in the forks of 
the branches and at the base of the walls. Earwigs may be 
trapped in pieces of beanstalk cut into lengths of about 6 inches 
and inserted among the branches ; they should be examined every 
morning, and any insects concealed therein blown into a pail of 
water. Nor is the fruit exempt from the attacks of snails and 
slugs. Search may be made for them with a lantern after dark, or 
baits of brewers’ grains may be laid at the foot of a wall and seen 
to early in the morning. Wasps should be trapped in soda water 
bottles about half filled with sweetened ale and suspended in the 
trees. Birds may be kept at bay by nets, but unless the weather 
be unusually dry they will not cause much trouble. 
Peaches, Nectarines, and Plums are upon the whole good crops. 
The fruit promises to be fine, and should be assisted in swelling- 
off by copious supplies of water, mulching with short manure. 
In the case of weakly trees carrying heavy crops of frnit weak 
liquid manure should be given, and the fruit more severely 
thinned than that of vigorous trees. Red spider is showing itself 
upon the Peach and Nectarine trees, and should be promptly met 
by thoroughly syringing with the garden engine in the evening. 
In case of a severe attack syringe thoroughly with a solution of 
soft soap, 3 ozs. to the gallon of water. The most forward fruit of 
Apricots, Peaches, &c., will require attention in turning the leaves 
aside, but avoid cutting them off, or only that part of them oyver- 
hanging the fruit, leaving a portion of each leaf so that the buds 
at the base may mature. : ; 
In the late houses thorough syringings must be given morning 
and afternoon, and the inside borders must be well attended to 
with water; in a dry period the outside borders should be well 
watered and mulched. Some liquid manure will help to swell the 
fruit to the largest size. Netting should be placed below the trees 
so as to catch and prevent bruising any fruit that may fall from 
ripeness. The shoots must be kept tied-in, any intended for bear- 
ing next season (except extensions) should be stopped at 10 to 
12 inches, and any laterals at the first leaf. The earliest-forced 
house will require to be kept as cool and airy as possible with a 
view to arrest premature growth, to which Peach and Nectarine 
trees are peculiarly liable when forced year after year successively. 
Apricots and the early kinds of Peach, Nectarine, and Plum 
must not be syringed after they commence ripening, but there 
must not be any deficiency of water at the roots or the successional 
fruit will not swell off well nor ripen perfectly, besides impairing 
the development of the buds for future bearing. Those swelling 
the fruit must be supplied with abundance of water, whether in 
pots or planted out, renewing the surface dressings and affording 
weak liquid manure occasionally. Syringe overhead in the after- 
noon at about five o’clock, closing the house at that time unless 
very bright, when closing may be deferred until six o'clock, ad- 
mitting air at the last-named hour in the morning if bright, or 
somewhat later ; the weather regulates these matters. Stop 
strong shoots, and rub off superfluous, admitting light and air 
freely to the fruit to give it colour and flavour. Look frequently 
over the various kinds of fruit trees trained to walls or otherwise, 
nailing or tying-in leading shoots, and removing or stopping those 
which are superfluous. 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Vines.—The Vines in the earliest-forced house will now require 
a dry atmosphere to thoroughly ripen the wood, but it will not be 
necessary to employ artificial heat to secure the requisite warmth. 
All laterals and late growths must be kept well in hand, and com- 
plete rest afforded by keeping the border cool and dry. To do 
this cover the outside border with dry bracken and withhold water 
from the inside. Young Vines of this year’s planting should be 
allowed to ramble at will provided the light is not too much ob- 
structed. Nothing is gained by crowding the foliage of young 
Vines, which have to be cut back to three or four eyes at the 
winter pruning; whilst any that are to afford frnit next season 
should have the laterals pinched back rather closely to a length 
of 6 or 7 feet, above which the laterals may haye more latitude, 
as they will aid in the production of roots. Vines in pots for 
next season’s fruiting will have completed their growth and can- 
not have too much light. The watering should be no greater than 
to keep the leaves fresh. Keeping too dry will induce premature 
ripening, and over-watering only tends to continued growth; 
whereas the object should be to thoroughly plump the eyes and 
mature the growth. Grapes will by this time have been thinned 
carefully, and if grown in pots should have the benefit of liquid 
manure, the pots well supplied with water and the surface mulched 
with rich material, so that the berries may swell to a good size. 
Keep the shoots well stopped to concentrate the juices upon the 
principal foliage and fruit, but any weakly Vines may have growth 
encouraged, as it promotes increased root-action. Avoid oyer- 
crowding. Those trained over the pathway should be kept weil 
stopped, so that the fruit trees may not be toomuch shaded. Grapes 
in the intermediate houses will be colouring, and should haye a 
thorough supply of water to the roots after sprinkling the border 
with guano or soot, which is nearly as rich in ammonia as many 
guanos. Admit air very freely whenever the weather permits, 
and maintain a night temperature of 70°, and 5° higher by day as 
a minimum or from fire heat. Late Grapes should have a mini- 
mum temperature night and day of 70°, and if air be freely ad- 
mitted by day scalding will be next to unknown; even Lady 
Downe’s does not scald when the above precautions are taken in 
time. Ripe Grapes should be frequently looked over, removing 
any shanked or decayed berries. Keep the atmosphere dry and 
airy and as cool as possible. Ripe black Grapes will not keep 
colour long unless the foliage is good, but thin shade during very 
bright sun will assist in preserving the colour and bloom. 
Orchard House——As soon as the fruit is gathered Cherry trees 
in pots should be removed to a sunny sheltered situation in the 
