July 25, 1878. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
“1 
ue 
open air, to insure the thorough ripening of the wood and perfect- 
ing of the fruit spurs for next season. If there be any traces of 
insects thorough syringings must be given so as to cleanse the 
trees of red spider, and if there be any black fly dip the shoots or 
syringe with diluted tobacco juice. It is important that the 
foliage be maintained in a healthy state some time longer. Fig 
trees in pots should have plenty of water whilst the fruit is 
swelling, as if there be any deficiency of moisture a check will 
be given which will cause the fruit to drop off. Syringing must 
be continued to keep the foliage free from red spider, but must 
cease as the fruit shows symptoms of ripening, or it will be 
spoiled in appearance and flayour. The young shoots may still 
be stopped. A second crop of Figs cannot be depended on in 
unheated orchard houses, but if a late crop of this delicious fruit 
be wanted none are more calculated to furnish it than trees that 
have perfected a first crop in the orchard house and are in good 
condition. The shoots, having been stopped, will show a second 
crop plentifully. The foliage being clean and healthy, they may, 
as soon as the fruit is gathered, be removed into a light airy 
house, where they can have the benefit of artificial heat, in which 
they will afford a crop of fruit little inferior in size and quite 
equal in flavour to the first crop. Pyramid and bush Apple and 
Pear trees are making much wood and should be restrained by 
stopping. Raspberries have been excellent and in some places 
are so still. As the crop is gathered the bearing canes should be 
all cut out, and the young ones thinned to about six to each 
stool so that sun and air may have free access to them, thus 
securing the ripening of the wood and buds. Autumnal kinds 
should be well watered and mulched, and secured to stakes if 
necessary. Do not neglect to pot runners of Strawberries as they 
may be had, for there is yet time to layer them in pots for forming 
new plantations. Well-rooted plants put out from now to early 
September will afford a nice crop of fruit next season. Forced 
plants which were put out in May and early June should have 
abundant watering and be mulched with stable litter, and they 
will fruit abundantly in late summer. Any Currants or Goose- 
berries required to be kept late should be covered with hexagon 
netting, which is better than mats. Those fortunate enough to 
have these fruits against low walls will have no difficulty in 
Keeping the fruit until a late period, protection being afforded 
against birds and wasps. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Greenhouse—The varieties of Lilium speciosum (lancifolium) 
should have the stems tied out so as to admit plenty of light and 
air to the foliage. Look well after aphides and dust with tobacco 
powder or syringe with tobacco water, washing well off the 
following morning. Afford a top-dressing of old cow dung or well- 
rotted manure and a liberal supply of weak liquid manure ; over- 
watering is equally injurious to the roots as a deficiency is to the 
foliage, which, if the soil get very dry, is sure to cause the falling- 
off of the lower leaves. These with plants of L. auratum coming on 
for late flowering should be p!unged in ashes in an open sheltered 
Situation, well sticked and secured to prevent the stems being 
broken by winds, and removed to the greenhouse when advanced 
for flowering. Plants of Liliums that have done flowering should 
be placed out of doors and be well attended to with water with a 
view to the plumping of the bulbs, upon which depends next 
year’s flowering. Harly-flowered Pelargoniums should at once be 
placed outdoors in the full sun, affording no more water than to 
prevent flagging, with a view to the thorough ripening of the 
wood before cutting down. If likely to become too wet from 
tains lay the pots on their sides. Chrysanthemums must be 
attended to in staking and tying-up the shoots as they advance in 
growth, for if this be neglected they are liable to be broken by 
wind. Harly-flowering Heaths will have completed their growth 
and should be placed outdoors upon a bed of ashes sufficiently 
thick to exclude worms. Afford them a position where they will 
be protected from bright sun at midday, but the shade must be of 
a light description, as too much shading is injurious, and after a 
week it may be dispensed with, as thorough exposure will cause 
the hardening of the wood and setting of the bloom. The plants 
should be examined at least once a day for water, and any requir- 
ing asupply be afforded it plentifully, regulating it by the strength 
of the plants, the freer-growing requiring more copious supplies 
than those less free in growth. Camellias that flowered late 
should have every encouragement to make a good growth by 
maintaining a moist atmosphere and affording copious supplies of 
weak liquid manure, especially to weakly plants. Those that 
have set the buds should be kept cool, either by placing outdoors 
in a position shaded from bright sun, or in a house that admits of 
very free ventilation. This is much the more preferable method, 
as, if the weather be very wet, the soil becomes soddened, the 
roots perish, and the buds turn brown and drop. 
Now that structures of this kind may have the plants placed 
outdoors in sheltered situations, an excellent opportunity is 
afforded of giving them a thorough cleaning, the required repairs 
being made and the woodwork thoroughly painted. Work of this 
kind is much better done at this time of year than at times when 
the plants must remain wholly, or in part, inside the house, which 
entails much needless labour and after-injury tothe plants. Plants 
not only look better, but grow better, in a clean house than a 
dirty one. 
TO CORRESPONDENTS. 
*,* All correspondence should be directed either to“ The Editors,” 
or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Mr. Johnson or 
Dr. Hogg often remain unopened unayoidably. We request 
that no one will write privately to any of our correspondents, as 
doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, 
and should never send more than two or three questions at 
once. All articles intended for insertion should be written on 
one side of the paper only, We cannot reply to questions 
through the post. 
A DAY IN THE COUNTRY.—*Last year some of your readers were led 
generously to help us to provide for nearly five hundred poor boys and girls 
who attend the Hackney Juvenile Mission a day’s excursion into the country. 
This year the Manager hopes to be able to take some three hundred children 
for a day in July or August, and I should be glad if your readers will again 
aid practically by sending donations to either Mr. John Newman, Hon. 
Manager, 117, Cheapside, E.C.; Mr. H. M. Heath, 4, St. Thomas’s Road, 
Hackney; or to Athro Alfred Knight, 71, King Edward’s Road, South 
Hackney, London, E.” 
FOXGLOVE (Mrs. D.).—Spcrts are common in Foxgloves, but are not per- 
manent. The white variety is very usual. 
VEGETABLE MARROWS (Zrying).—Very varying temperature probably 
causes the decay. 
PEARS (J. E.).—Any of the leading nurserymen could obtain them for 
you. 
MOLES (C.J.).—We cannot guess how the moles got into the cistern. 
They could creep up a pipe 2 inches in diameter. Puta piece of wire net 
over its mouth. 
GRAPES NOT COLOURING (WY. Pantry).—No wonder. 
of bunches would be a good crop. : 
TREATMENT OF NEGLECTED Fucusias, &¢. (Paddle).—Prune your 
Fuchsias and repot immediately, syringe them freely two or three times 
daily, and they will soon put forth fresh growth. Repot the Ferns imme- 
diately, but do not disturb the Cyclamens planted in the open ground till the 
end of September, then take up and repot, retaining a little soil about the 
roots and using pots of a size proportionate to that of the plants. Lift your 
Potatoes as soon as the tubers have ceased swelling. If any are diseased 
spread the whole out thinly in a dark airy room, and examine them every 
few days. 
TRANSPLANTING OLD CURRANT BUSHES (£.).—With a due exercise of 
care in saving as many roots as possible, and retaining a slight ball of soil 
with the roots, your old Gooseberry and Currant bushes may be transplanted 
advantageously and successfully. 
SUCCESSIONAL SORTS OF STRAWBERRIES (Jdem).—La Marguerite, Pre- 
sident, Dr. Hogg, and Frogmore Late Pine, are four good sorts ripening in 
the order in which they are named. 
SUMMER PRUNING FRUIT TREES (Jdem).—Read our reply to “E.H. R.” 
in this issue, also prune the leading shoots simultaneously with the side 
shoots. The same system of pruning applies to all kinds of Apples, Pearsy 
Plums, and Cherries, whatever may be their peculiar habit of growth. Do 
not forget, however, that some sorts require much greater care in training 
than others, each tree affording a clear indication ofits peculiar requirements. 
ROSE TREE LEAVES INSECT-EATEN (X. Z.).—The semicircular pieces 
are eaten by the Leaf-cutter Bee. There are drawings and descriptions in 
“The Gardeners’ Magazine of Botany.” Its scientific name is Lyda inanita. 
The fly hovers over the Roses, and may at once be identified by its glosssy 
yellow wings. 
PLANTING ROSES, SHRUBS, &C. (Sambo).—Noyember is the best month 
for planting Roses; Roses in pots may, however, be planted at any time. If 
you transplant shrubs in August, remember that due attention must be 
given to watering ; much better would it be to wait till September, and so 
save much labour. Pansies, Pinks, and Carnations may all be transplanted 
in August if they are well watered regularly afterwards. Lilies may also be 
moved then if the flowering is over. For the flower beds which you purpose 
making in that month take such spring flowers as Myosotis, Aubrietia, 
Silene, Saponaria, Viola, Limnanthes to clothe the surface with greenery 
during winter, and to afford a brilliant display of bloom in spring. Or you 
may make pretty beds of hardy succulents, dotting them with such bulbs as 
Crocuses, Snowdrops, Tulips, and Hyacinths. 
STRAWBERRIES FOR A LONG SUCCESSION (Mf. D. D.)—Black Princes 
La Marguerite, Pioneer, La Grosse Sucrée, Vicomtesse Hericart de Thury> 
President, James Veitch, Dr. Hogg, Sir Charles Napier, Frogmore Late Pine, 
Elton Pine, and Hélene Gloede. 
RAISING AUCUBAS FROM SEED (G. Zodd).—March is the best month for 
sowing, or for a general rule sow the seed as soon as gathered. No par- 
ticular treatment is required ; it usually yegetates freely in a greenhouse, 
and if due care is exercised in watering your seed will no doubt germinate 
very soon. 
SUMMER PRUNING FRUIT TREES (Z. H. R.).—Pear and Plum trees 
should be pruned twice during the season of growth. The first time after 
the spring growth is some 9 inches ora foot in length, and again at mid- 
summer; after which let the shoots grow, and early in September twist each 
shoot round immediately beyond the third or fourth eye from its base, turn- 
ing the end downwards. By this process the bottom buds become plump 
and full without starting into growth, some sap still finding its way among 
the bruised tissues of the “ twist,’ which is cut off with the turned-down 
shoots as the leaves fall. 
MELONS SPLITTING (Hampshire).—The cracking of your Melons was 
probably caused by watering after the fruit had ceased swelling. In future 
when the fruit begins changing colour gradually-reduce the quantity of 
water, giving very little and that only around the sides of the box or pit 
wall. Cracked fruit is also attributable to careless watering, such as letting 
Half the number 
