August 1, 1878. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
Clematis and Tropzolums will now, if they have been well 
attended to, be in great beauty, and should have attention in 
respect of training for some time longer, which is essential] to their 
pleasing appearance in dressed grounds; but where they are 
planted to cover old stumps and trunks of trees, for spreading on 
and overhang rock or nooks and corners where they can be ac- 
commodated with a few sticks to afford support, anything like 
trimness should be avoided, only slight training may be resorted 
to for the better securing of the object sought. 
The propagation of bedding plants for another season must now 
or soon have attention. Pelargoniums that are cultivated for the 
beauty of their leaves should be propagated forthwith, inserting 
three or four cuttings in a 3-inch pot placed on ashes in a cold 
frame, but with the lights off, yet in readiness to afford protection 
from heavy rains. This applies more particularly to the choice 
moderate-growing varieties, but any free growers as well as the 
green-leaved varieties strike freely mserted in poor soil in the full 
sun, taking them up and potting when well rooted. If stock 
plants of such as Alternantheras, Coleus, Iresine, &c., were not 
reserved for propagating from cuttings should be struck at once, 
so as to have strong well-established plants by autumn, without 
which they cannot be expected to winter satisfactorily. Those 
fortunate enough to have a reserve garden will find the benefit 
of it now, as it is, to say the least, annoying to be cutting the 
plants in the flower garden directly they begin to fill the beds ; 
and unless carefully done unsightly gaps are made and a quantity 
of bloom removed, which is undesirable, and witha reserve garden 
unnecessary. 
; PLANT HOUSES. 
_ Stove.—Toxicophlea Thunbergii and T. spectabile are very de- 
sirable plants, not unlike a Gardenia in growth, the flowers borne 
in corymbs like an Ixora but much smaller, white, and deliciously 
fragrant, a few flowers scenting a large house. They do well in 
sandy peat, and must not be overpotted. They flower freely in a 
small state. Young plants of Gardenias that were struck about 
this time last year or early this spring will need a shift into 8 or 
#-inch pots, according to their strength, which should be given at 
once, as nothing injures young plants so much as allowing them 
to become root-bound, If a batch of plants well set with buds 
and which have been rested for a short time be placed in bottom 
heat and afforded a brisk moist top heat they will come in useful 
when flowers are becoming scarce. 
Gloxinias as they go out of bloom should have water gradually 
withheld, and when the tops go off place the pots on a moist 
bottom, where there is a temperature of about 45°, in which they 
winter safely. Late-flowering plants should have a position near 
the glass shaded from bright sun and be well supplied with water, 
liquid manure being given after the flowers show. Achimenes 
should not be dried off too quickly, as is too often the case, but 
must have water to prevent severe flagging. Plants in flower 
are the better of shade from bright sun, but anything like gloom 
is not promotive of sturdy growth and free flowering ; therefore 
keep plants for late bloom near the glass with no more shade 
than to prevent scorching, affording them weak liquid manure, 
and staking and tying as required. Tydzas should have every 
encouragement to make a good growth, with similar treatment 
to Achimenes as to light, watering, &c. Gesnera exoniensis, 
G. zebrina, and G. zebrina splendens coming on for winter bloom 
must have a position near the glass to keep the growths sturdy 
and the leaves in good colour, affording them water copiously, 
but avoid overdoing it, which is as bad or worse than overdry- 
ness. Gesnera Cooperi and G. Donkelaari, and others of that 
section coming on for second bloom should be encouraged with 
weak liquid manure, and kept in a light position. 
Franeisceas that have completed their growth should be re- 
moved to a cooler and drier house to firm the wood. Any early- 
flowered plants that have made a good growth and been exposed 
to light may be kept cool and airy for a few weeks, then if placed 
in brisk moist heat they will come into flower in late September 
and October, and be very acceptable. 
Allamandas and Dipladenias that have been for some time in 
bloom will have the flowering prolonged by copious supplies of 
liquid manure about every other time they require watering. 
These and other climbers of free growth planted out should have 
free waterings with liquid manure. Alschynanthus plants in sus- 
pended baskets or suspended pots must not lack for water, but 
an excess is equally pernicious, both extremes causing them to 
east the flowers. Few plants equal them in late summer and 
autumn, it being remarkable that they are not more frequently seen. 
All winter-flowering plants, such as Plumbago rosea, P. coccinea 
superba, Poinsettia pulcherrima, Sericographis Ghiesbreghtiana, 
Eranthemum pulchellum, Aphelandras cristata, aurantiaca, auran- 
tiaca Roezli; Euphorbia jacquinizflora, Centropogon Lucyanus, 
Thyrsacanthus rutilans, &c., should be encouraged to make 
strong growth by keeping them near the glass, or where they 
will receive plenty of light in a growing temperature, syringing 
them every evening to keep thrips and red spider under. The 
last pinching should now be given to Huphorbia jacquinieflora, 
as, if deferred until late, the growths will be weak and will not 
flower satisfactorily. 
Stove plants during hot weather require abundant atmospheric 
moisture, syringing morning and afternoon, the latter at about 
5 P.M. or earlier, being regulated by the time of closing, as it is 
desirable to have the foliage mainly dry before nightfall. Admit 
a little air at 75°, increase it with the temperature after 80° is 
reached, running up to 85° or 90°, and close at 80°, and if it rise to 
85° or 90° from sun the plants will enjoy it. 
TRADE CATALOGUE RECEIVED. 
Henry Boller, 73, South Row, Kensal New Town, London, W.— 
Catalogue of Succulent Plants. 
TO CORRESPONDENTS. 
*,* All correspondence should be directed either to “‘ The Editors,’ 
or to “The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Mr. Johnson or 
Dr. Hogg often remain unopened unavoidably. We request 
that no one will write privately to any of our correspondents, as 
doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
WINDOW GREENHOUSE (S. S.).—We cannot recommend any tradesmen. 
Refer to our advertising columns. 
WILLOW FENCING (G@. Stenson).—It would not injure cattle that ate its 
leaves. 
ADDRESS (A Lover of Rose Shows).—Write to Mr. Duffield, ironmonger, 
Slough, who can, Mr. Turner informs us, supply you with what you require, 
DISEASED LEAVES (C. V.).—They are all mildewed. The only remedy is 
the repeated application of flowers of sulphur. = 
SWEET WILLIAMS AND ANTIRRHINUMS (W. C.).—The flowers of the 
Dianthuses are diversified in colour and represent a good strain. The 
Antirrhinums are varied, and similar to those you have previously sent to us, 
and of which we have spoken approvingly. 
VARIOUS (Crickel).—Sprinkle Scotch snuff over the haunts of the crickets. 
Add some sandy soil to the clayey herbaceous border, and the same sandy 
soil would suit the Lilies in the low ground. We cannot name a plant 
from leaves only. 
STOVE, GREENHOUSE, AND HERBACEOUS PLANTS (IV. J£.).—Consult 
the nearest florist, who will know your houses, &c. 
MIGNONETTE CULTURE (Cambusmore Mound).—Enrich your light sandy 
loam with a heavy dressing of manure, water thoroughly in dry weather, and 
you will have no further trouble. The browning of the foliage and prema- 
ture decay of your Mignonette is caused by poverty of soil,and probably also 
by drought. Mignonette loves a generous diet and well repays us for it. 
GROWING GRAPES WITHOUT ARTIFICIAL HEAT (W. IL G.).—*LIN- 
COLNSHIRE GARDENER” is quite right and you may safely follow his 
advice. The note by “ PRACTICALIST’’ should be regarded by you as a 
scientific hint to growers of delicate Grapes in what are termed late vineries. 
So regarded it is really valuable and does not clash with that of our other 
correspondent. Only take care to plant hardy sorts of proved excellence, 
to afford a freeand abundant circulation of air among foliage and fruit, and 
you will have very little loss from scalding. 
CUCUMBERS PRESERVING (J. R. S.).—We do not remember the notes on 
preserving them in the earth. 
ROSES (J. S. Jf.).—We know of no book such as you name. Our “ Garden 
Manual” contains full directions. : 
GERANIUM L’ELEGANTE NOT FLOWERING (A Constant Subscriber’) — 
The paucity of flowers is attributable to one of two causes—smallness of the 
plants, or richness of the soil, or to both incombination. In very rich soil 
growth is always made at the expense of blossom. Take the cuttings for 
next season’s stock as soon as possible, give the young plants rich soil while 
in pots to induce a free growth during winter and spring, but let the soil of 
the flower bed in which you plant them next summer be poor, and you will 
no doubt have plenty of flowers. 
CYCLAMENS AFTER FLOWERING (J/dem).—They require a partial rest, 
but not by any means a drying-off, a cool shaded place outdoors being 
suitable for them. When signs of growth appear the plants should be re- 
potted, removing carefully a good portion of the old soil, and potting in pots 
the same size as before or slightly larger, using light turfy compost ; after- 
wards place in cool frames, or the plants may be planted out in rich light 
soil and potted inSeptember. They do not usually improve after they have 
flowered for four or five years, and it is advisable to raise a few plants from 
seed every second year to insure a stock of vigorous plants. 
THRIPS ON CARNATIONS (D. C.).—We cannot suggest any better means 
of driving the insects from the flowers than syringing them copiously and 
frequently with pure water. The application of an insecticide would either 
injure the blooms or spoil their perfume. Thrips are seldom prevalent in 
showery weather, hence we advise syringings to. be applied early in the 
morning and again towards evening. 
AUCHUSA ITALICA (Jdem).—This hardy border perennial is readily in- 
creased from seed, which should be sown at once in the open border, the 
seedlings being transplanted 6 inches apart as soon as they are large enough 
to be handled, and subsequently planted in their blooming positions. The 
plants may also be increased by root-division in the autumn. Incorporate 
leaf soil, lime rubbish, or any gritty matter, also soot, with the strong soil of 
your border, and you will succeed in growing herbaceous plants well. 
LIQUID MANURE FOR VINES (J. W. Z.).—As your Vines were planted 
this year in a new border 14 feet wide, we do not think they require any 
liquid manure. Assuming that the border is good and the Vines in a fair 
degree healthy, the one bunch on each Vine will not be exhaustive. We do 
not approve of inducing a succulent growth by the application of stimulants 
when the Vines are young, but prefer moderately strong, short-jointed, 
hard canes with prominent buds. As your Vine border is inside soak it 
thoroughly with pure water. If you are anxious to try a stimulant, mix 
half an ounce of guano in each gallon of water and apply immediately after 
