August 15, 1878. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
135 
amongst birds, the Weka. Beneath the imbricating fronds a 
goodly number of insects find refuge ; this causes our friendly 
Weka to make use of his investigating bill as a convenient 
instrument for clearing the fernery from insect pests. His 
work in that direction is fairly entitled to the praise of being 
called thorough.—G, (in the Wen Zealand Country Journal). 
(To be continued.) 
NOTES ON VILLA AND SUBURBAN GARDENING. 
KircHEN GARDEN.—Attend to the directions given in previous 
‘calendars as far as regards hoeing and clearing the ground of 
weeds, in order that neatness and regularity may prevail in every 
‘part of the garden. Clear the ground of decaying Pea haulm, 
Potato haulm, or old Cabbage stumps, and fill the ground again 
at once with Coleworts, Winter Spinach, or a sowing of Turnips. 
Advantage should be taken of moist weather both for sowing and 
planting, and the seeds will germinate the sooner and the plants 
become more speedily established. To ensure a sufficient supply 
of Spinach throughout the autumn and winter months sow a 
breadth at once, and again towards the end of the month. The 
first sowing will in all probability furnish an abundant supply of 
Jarge green leaves throughout the autumn, while the crop from 
the latter sowing will not be nearly so succulent, and conse- 
quently hardier and the more likely to withstand the severity of 
the winter. The prickly-seeded or Flanders is the best for this 
sowing, and should be sown in drills from a foot to l5inches 
apart, thinning the plants to a 
plants. 
The orthodox time for sowing Cauliflowers for a supply during 
May and June of the following year is about the 20th of the 
present month, but this may be varied a few days either way in 
accordance with the district. In the north and colder districts 
the 20th is quite late enough for sowing, but in the southern or 
warmer parts towards the end of the month will not be found too 
late. Experience teaches us that if the plants be sown too soon 
they are apt to button, and on the other hand if sown too late 
they will not be sufficiently strong to pass the winter. Sow 
Walcheren and Early London varieties on a border of light soil, 
and water the seed bed occasionally if dry weather ensue. 
Cabbage seed may yet be sown if sufficient seed has not ger- 
minated from former sowings. None will be found better and 
Sweeter when cooked than Wheeler’s Imperial. We grow quan- 
tities of this variety planted only about l5inches apart, which 
supplies us with small compact tender heads. If a larger variety 
is needed the Entield Market and Battersea are well known 
standard sorts. 
Carrots sown now on dry warm borders will be found most 
useful for drawing during winter and early spring, especially on 
those soils where there is a difficulty in obtaining a sufficient 
supply from the spring or main-crop sowings. Early Horn is a 
usetul variety. 
Sow both the Flat and Globe Tripoli Onions, to be transplanted 
in the spring for making large bulbs and for using in a young 
green state. Pull those bulbs of winter-sown Onions that are 
well matured, and bend the necks down of those that are yet 
green and upright. also lay the crop of spring-sown varieties ; 
these will also soon be in a fit state for pulling and laying on 
their sides to ripen off previously to storing for the winter. 
Garlic and Shallots will be fit to take up, and may be treated in 
the same way as described for Onions. 
Spring-sown Parsley has this year been a failure in many places, 
and later sowings have had to be resorted to. Make another sow- 
ing for winter and spring use, and transplant any of the previous 
<rops in warm sheltered situations. In places where Parsley is 
growing strong and luxuriantly it is a very good plan to cut down 
close to the ground a portion of the crop. The young new 
growths made after this time withstand the winter much better 
than the summer-made growths, which in hard weather speedily 
tarn brown. 
Sow Endive at once. Fraser’s Broad-leaf and the Batayian are 
hardy varieties, and when well bleached are useful for salads, or 
they are often used boiled as a vegetable as a substitute for 
Spinach ; the Moss-curled is also one of the best for the earliest 
supply. Plant out those already strong enough to transplant. 
Sow the Black-seeded variety of Brown Cos Lettuce for with- 
standing the winter. Transplant others to have an abundance 
for the filling of cold frames and other appliances to carry on a 
full supply up to Christmas. Radishes, Mustard, Cress, and 
Chervil may also be sown asrequired. They will be found to keep 
longer fit for the table than those that have been sown during the 
previous month. Gather Mint, Thyme, Marjoram, and other 
herbs for drying, and when dry let them be put in paper bags for 
use during the winter months. 
Lift Potatoes as they approach to maturity and before the 
disease attacks them. Early varieties on light soil are more or 
jess diseased, but late varieties up to the present have escaped the 
“tnurrain. Plant out more Celery, and water that already trans- 
planted to enable it to make a rapid growth. 
few inches apart between the | 
Strawberries—The planting of new plantations must no longer 
be delayed if good fruit is expected from them next year. Run- 
ners that were recommended to be layered in pots will now be in 
fine order for planting out, and will make plump crowns and well- 
established plants by the end vf the season; it is from these 
plants that very large fruit may be expected. The Strawberry 
delights in a deeply trenched and well manured soil. The run- 
ners of all sorts are now in good order to be taken off for propa- 
gating, and may be planted thickly in a nursery bed, from which 
they can be transplanted permanently at some future period. Re- 
move all runners and superfluous growths trom established planta- 
tions, but do not adopt the barbarous system of cutting all the 
leaves, and run the hoe lightly through the ground to make all 
neat. 
Conservatories can be now kept gay with tuberous-flowering 
Begonias, Liliums, Gladioluses, Balsams, Cockscombs, Fuchsias, 
and zonal Geraniums, relieved with Ferns, Caladiums, and other 
fine-foliage plants. As soon as Achimenes, Gloxinias, or other 
stove plants go out of flower or show signs of distress remove 
them at once to the stove before they receive injury by being kept 
too long in too low a temperature. Tuberous-flowering Begonias 
are now grown in great profusion, and from a single packet of 
seed a quantity of varieties may be raised. Messrs. Laing &'Co. 
of Stanstead Park exhibited a large collection at the Royal Horti- 
cultural Society recently, which had, with a few exceptions, been 
all raised from seed sown in January of this year. Their easy 
culture, compact and floriferous habit, recommend them to all 
growers with limited means. With the help ofa frame or ordinary 
greenhouse these Begonias may be well grown. The tubers if 
potted about April in a light, sandy, friable loam will soon make 
decorative plants, or they may be planted out in the open ground 
in May. Several varieties are planted out in Battersea Park, and 
they produce a brilliant yet elegant effect. As the plants in pots 
go out of flower water must be gradually withheld from them, 
and the soil should be kept moderately dry throughout the winter 
and safe from frost. Of the named varieties Vesuvius, Emperor, 
Sedeni, Feu de Joie, Moonlight, John Laing, Paul Masurel,'Ori- 
flamme, and Gloire de Nancy, are all good, and so are many others. 
WORK FOR THE WEEK. 
MUSHROOM HOUSE. 
CoLuectT from day to day the droppings of horses fed upon dry 
food, as those of animals fed upon green fodder are not suitable 
for the growth of this esteemed breakfast delicacy. They should 
be had with about a fourth part of short straw, and spread out 
thinly upon the floor and shelves or other places protected from 
the weather. In some instances the horses stand upon sawdust, 
hence the droppings cannot be collected without a portion of the 
sawdust. This kind of material forms good and durable beds ; 
but we prefer to add a fourth of straw, though that is not essential 
to the production of Mushrooms, yet from its steady decomposition 
is alike favourable to the heat of the bed and the vigour of the 
mycelium. In other cases the procuring of droppings fresh from 
the stables is unattainable ; if had at all they must be taken from 
the dung yard. In that case the droppings must be shaken out 
with a fork, rejecting the long litter; and being done well—i.c., 
as much straw removed as possible, a very good material is ob- 
tained, and one that may be employed at once without fear of 
overheating. In all the above instances the staple is horse drop- 
pings with a portion of straw. Some prefer an admixture of loam, 
but unless very fibrous we have not found any advantage from 
its employment other than for the surface of the beds. Other 
material than horse droppings grows excellent Mushrooms. The 
finest we have seen were produced by sheep droppings, hay, and 
Oak leaves, the débris of a sheep pen, the hay and leaves being 
about equal to the bulk of the droppings. Good Mushrooms are 
also had from Oak or Beech leaves mixed with an equal quantity 
of horse droppings, and from those and straw saturated with 
urine, &c., from stable and cow houses with an admixture of a 
fourth part turfy loam ; but the principal agent in the production 
of Mushrooms being nitrogen those substances that afford it most 
abundantly are the most likely to afford the best results providing 
the material be not allowed to heat, as in that case a large pro- 
portion of the nitrogen would be given off in the form of ammonia ; 
therefore in preference material that has not heated is to be 
chosen. 
Whatever the material may be it must neither be very wet nor 
thoroughly dry, but just sufficiently moist to form when beaten a 
firm close mass. When a sufficient quantity of the material is 
collected for the formation of a bed, which may be of any size 
according to the means and requirements, throw it into a heap 
with a base of about 4 to 5 feet, and a yard in height in the centre. 
In three or four days a gentle heat will be generated, when the 
material may be formed into a bed by placing a layer of 2 to 3 inches 
thickness, beating firmly with wooden mallets, then another, 
and so on until a depth of 12 to 14 inches is secured of thoroughly 
solidified compost. Some employ water, but unless the material 
be too dry it is better omitted, and in case of its necessity employ 
no more than to make the manure compress. In the case of the 
