August 22, 1878. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 155 
but form better hearts than when grown in loose soil. An open 
yet sheltered situation should be chosen, and to save trans- 
planting sow in rows a foot apart, thinning the plants to 9 inches 
distance. In cold localities sow on warm borders, or transplant 
thereto early in October. If sown about a foot from the base of a 
wall with an east aspect and thinned to 9 or 12 inches distance 
apart they stand much better than in the open during a severe 
winter. A sowing of Cauliflowers should also be made in an open 
situation for pricking off in frames or under handlights in October. 
Dwarf Erfurt Mammoth, Early London, and Walcheren are those 
we give preference to for this sowing. Good breadths of Lettuce 
should be planted for autumn and winter use, also Batavian and 
Curled Endive, taking advantage of dry weather to tie-up Endive 
in a sufficiently forward state ; also Cos Lettuce, which is liable to 
grow open at this time of year. Any strong plants of Cauliflower 
may still be planted, andif the autumn be mild they will be service- 
able for lifting when the heads are 3 or 4inches across, and plant- 
ing in frames, &c. Let all ground falling vacant from crops of 
Peas, Beans, Potatoes, Cauliflowers, &c., be cleared and occupied 
with Winter Greens, salading, or there is yet time to secure a crop 
of Turnips by selecting the early varieties; the crops, however, 
should be of such a kind as will not interfere with next year’s 
cropping. Onions are ripening-off earlier than usual, and may 
have the tops laid down for the sake of appearance ; but it will not 
alter the size of the bulbs, indeed those that keep the heads erect 
the longest afford the largest bulbs, yet bending down facilitates 
ripening. Cut, if not already done, herbs for drying, in order to 
have plenty to meet any demands that be made for them during 
the winter. 
FLOWER GARDEN, 
Carpet beds, whatever objection may be taken to them, are now 
in great beauty. This style of bedding is becoming more popular 
every year, and will be more popular still, inasmuch as many of 
the plants do not require nearly so much care and attention in 
wintering as Pelargoniums, kc. Sedums, Saxifrages, and Semper- 
vivums are quite hardy, as also are many others, whilst those that 
are tender need only be wintered as stock plants, and propagated 
from to almost any extent in spring. Propagation of many of the 
plants may now be proceeded with. Sedums and Saxifrages may 
be divided and planted in any place where not too much shaded 
and where the soil does not become soddened from too much water, 
and Sempervivums should be inserted in firm soil. Echeveria 
secunda glauca may have the offsets inserted closely together 
in boxes orpans. All that is wanted is to firm the soil well 
around the base of the offsets, and placing the pots outdoors in 
the full sun. E. retusa strikes freely from cuttings, and E. me- 
tallica may be propagated from leaves, but the young leaves only 
are available. The great bane of Echeverias in winter is damp, 
but by care in watering and with a light roof they may be wintered 
without loss. 
Similar remarks apply to such flowering plants as Verbenas, Pe- 
tunias, Ageratums, &c.; but Pelargoniums should now be propa- 
gated to the full extent for next year’s supply, most of the kinds | 
striking readily upon a sunny border proyided the soil be well 
firmed about the base of the cuttings. Cuttings inserted now 
will be ready for potting at the end of September. We (for 
want of room to winter the plants in single pots, which is by far 
the best plan) insert the cuttings in boxes about 3 inches deep, } 
2 feet long, 13 to 15 inches wide, and place them in the full sun, 
housing them before frost.” Go over the beds frequently for the | 
| of all), Noblesse, Grosse Mignonne, and Stirling Castle, which 
removal of spent flower trusses and dead or decayed leaves, keep- 
ing the lines and divisions well defined by constant pinching. | 
Weeds, too, must be kept from the walks, those and the grass well 
rolled, the verges regularly cut, and the machine run over the 
lawn frequently to maintain a neat appearance throughout. 
Cuttings of Hollyhocks may now be inserted in gentle heat in a 
frame, shading them from sun until rooted, also Dahlias of any new 
yarieties. Pansy cuttings strike freely now in cold frames or in 
borders kept moist and shaded from sun; also saye and sow seed 
of Pansies, Polyanthuses, Auriculas, and Anemones. Carnations 
may yet be layered. Roses may yet be budded; the Tea-scented 
and China strike freely under handlights on a north border, select- 
ing ripe wood. Seedling biennials or perennials must not be 
allowed to become drawn in the seed bed, but must be pricked 
off ; those already pricked off and requiring more room may be 
planted in their flowering quarters, particularly Wallflowers and 
others required for early bloom. Cut back the rampant growths 
of Roses so as to throw more vigour in the flowering shoots, re- 
moving all decayed blooms, and make all neat not only as regards 
the plants and beds or borders but the surroundings. Cut away 
the flower stems of herbaceous plants as they go out of bloom, 
keeping all about the plants clean and tidy. Eyergreens haying 
completed the growth and the wood become firm may safely be 
transplanted in moist weather, and the work being carefully per- 
formed the plants will receive no check but will root freely in 
the warm soil. Complete the cutting of hedges, screens, é&c., 
without further delay. Holly and Laurels should only have irre- 
gularities removed, and never with the shears, which mars their 
It is not necessary'to propagate a great quantity of | 
Mesembryanthemums, Alternantheras, Lobelias, Iresine, or Coleus, | 
yet the needful stock must be raised for propagating from in spring, | 
| strata beneath the drainage be unfavourable, or better laid with 
appearance for a considerable time. Any irregularities in the 
growth of shrubs may also be removed, giving them a neat appear- 
ance for the remainder of the season. Propagation of evergreens 
from cuttings may now be proceeded with, the wood being firm, 
FRUIT HOUSES. 
Vines —Those in the earliest forced house will be casting their 
leaves and should have all the ventilation practicable, and the 
border allowed to become as dry as is consistent with the preser- 
vation of the roots. The Vines should be pruned at the end of 
the present or early part of next month at latest, the house tho- 
roughly cleaned, repaired, and if required painted, the Vines being 
dressed, removing no more than the loose bark, and washing the 
rods, &c., with a solution of soft soap 8 ozs. to the gallon of water. 
If there be any scale or mealy bug a wineglassful of paraffin may 
be added, with flowers of sulphur to bring it to the consistency 
of cream. Apply to every part, after mixing thoroughly, with a 
brush. The borders both inside and outside should be cleared of 
the old mulching material and the loose surface soil, and have a 
top-dressing of turfy loam with about a fifteenth part of bone 
dust incorporated. “If the border be dry a moderate watering: 
should be given and the house kept as cool as possible. 
Vines started late in the spring will need to be excited by sharp 
firing, so as to have the fruit well ripened by the middle or end of 
next month at latest, maintaining a night temperature of 70° to 
75° or 80° by day, up to 85° or 90° with sun, this being the period 
to make up for lost time instead of deferring firing until the Grapes 
show colour,.as they may not do until September is well advanced, 
prolonging the ripening into October or later. Grapes so ripened 
do not keep plump or satisfactorily to a late period. The atmo- 
spheric moisture, as well as that at the roots, must be kept up ip 
proportion to the condition of the Vines and the temperature 
maintained, accompanied with free ventilation so as to accelerate 
the ripening process. Vines in other houses that were started in 
good time will be well advanced towards ripening, and should 
have the atmospheric moisture reduced gradually without giving 
more fire heat than to keep up a circulation of dry warm air, 
which will be all that is needed to secure well-ripened wood and 
highly finished fruit. Vines from which the Grapes kave been cut 
must have all laterals closely stopped, and a dry warm atmosphere 
with abundant ventilation maintained to insure the thorough 
maturation of the wood. With a view to the preservation of the 
foliage give a good washing with the garden engine on fine even- 
ings, especially if there be traces of red spider. 
Peaches and Nectarines.—lf any planting or lifting of trees for 
early forcing require to be performed soil should now be procured 
and stacked, which will reduce the turf considerably betore it is 
wanted, and will be in a more suitable condition than if used. 
fresh. Strong turfy loam with a fourth or sixth part of mazrl, 
according to the character of the loam, forms.an excellent compost, 
and this without an admixture of dung or other material will 
grow Peaches of the finest quality. New borders must have 
efficient drainage, the bottom of the border being concreted if the 
brick on flat and run with cement, the border being further en- 
closed with walls so as to confine the roots. It is essential that 
the drains have a proper fall and outlet, rubble being placed over 
them 9 to 12 inches thick, and turf grass side downwards upom 
it. The borders should be 80 inches deep, and be ready for plant- 
ing by the end of September. Trees of three or four years trained 
to walls should be chosen, and if lifted carefully they will ex- 
perience little or no check. The best kinds for early forcing are: 
Early Beatrice, Early Alfred, Hale’s Early, Royal George (best. 
will give a lengthened succession of fruit. Of Nectarines plant 
Lord Napier and Elruge. The trees should be planted inside, 
but with access for the roots to the outside border. 
In the earliest-forcea housé the leaves will soon be off, when 
loosen the shoots from the trellis, clean the house, seeing to 
the needful repairs, and painting of the woodwork and trellis. 
The mulching and loose surface soil should be removed and re- 
placed by fresh loam with a twelfth part of bone dust and a 
twentieth of wood ashes, affording a moderate watering if the 
border be dry. Whatever pruning is required should be done so 
soon as the house is put in order, but if the trees have beem 
properly attended to very little work will require to be performed 
by the knife, and dress the branches with soft soap, 8 ozs. to the 
gallon of water ; if there is any scale add a wineglassful of spirits 
of turpentine, with as much tobacco juice as the solution will admit 
of without curding, which is about half that of the soap solution. 
The trees in all but the very latest houses will soon be cleared of 
the fruit. Thin-out all shoots not required, so as to admit light 
and air, and if the wood be at all green and sappy tum on the 
heat, giving all the air practicable night and day. The circulation © 
of warm air will tend materially to ripen the wood and plump the 
buds. Trees that have ripened their wood may be fully exposed 
to the weather. See that the borders do not want for water, espe- 
cially those inside, and syringe the trees well with the engine if 
there be any traces of red spider. 
PLANT HOUSES. : : 
GREENHOUSE.—Cinerarias for early flowering shift into the 
